A perfect Rose
While the Rose and Crown in the village of Sutton-on-the-Forest, eight miles from York, may enjoy a traditional Yorkshire picture-postcard setting, its days of serving traditional Yorkshire fare are long gone.
Since owner Ralph Magee - who bought the 45-seat pub in 1999 - installed head chef Stephen Harper in the kitchen last summer, the food offering has received something of an overhaul. Harper, assisted by sous chef Adam Jackson and chef de partie Richard Benson, has created a table d'hôte menu consisting of four choices at each of three courses for £21.50.
"I like to keep dishes simple with not too many ingredients on the plate," says 26-year-old Harper, who honed his craft during three years under Simon Radley as junior sous chef in the Arkle restaurant at the Chester Grosvenor hotel before returning to his native county.
Among the starters on the current menu, which is two weeks into its 10-week life span, is a goats' cheese salad consisting of grilled petits crottins with crispy Italian pancetta, and a borlotti bean and rocket salad. The dish was retained from the previous menu because of its popularity with the affluent, elderly, middle-class customers who make up the average of 10-20 weekday and 45 Friday and Saturday night covers.
Lamb is a best seller at main course - "Every time I put lamb on it sells well" - currently appearing as a rump of Dales lamb with potatoes provençal, spinach, basil and a pressed olive jus, among a choice including cod, beef and chicken. For vegetarians, a separate choice of two starters and two main dishes is always available and may include a red pepper risotto with tempura vegetables and a caper dressing.
More choices unfold on the daily-changing specials board, where Harper takes advantage of special deals or availability from his suppliers and tries out dishes destined for the table d'hôte menu. A roast king scallop may be listed, accompanied by a chilled salmon ballotine, vegetable tarte tatin and a herb emulsion (£8). Or, for main course, there may be honey-glazed belly pork with home-made black pudding and creamed spinach and mash (£10.50). Most diners, however - an average of 80% - opt to spend £21.50 on the table d'hôte menu.
Desserts on the table d'hôte menu, such as the twice-baked apricot and pistachio soufflé, come with the option of a glass of dessert wine - either Elysium Black Muscat 1988, Quady, California, or Liqueur Muscat Reserve, Campbells, Victoria - for an additional £5.90.
The Rose and Crown, Main Street, Sutton-on-the-Forest, York YO6 1DP. Tel: 01347 811333. Web site: www.rosecrown.co.uk
