Alfonso Iaccarino – Alfonso Iaccarino
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Iaccarino cooks at, and his wife Livia manages, the restaurant at SantÁ¢ÂÂAgata sui Due Golfi. Sited between the Gulf of Naples and the Gulf of Salerno, opposite the Isle of Capri, itÁ¢ÂÂs a legendary address. Here, Iaccarino has created a garden that is becoming as famous as his restaurant; a garden that grows many different varieties of fruit and vegetables, which allow him to cook dishes with flavours that are rich with the authenticity and traditions of his homeland.
Recipes that caught my attention included one for caciotta ravioli with cherry tomatoes and basil. This dish proves the point that something made with care, surety, great ingredients and a healthy dash of greed is a delight, despite its seemingly simple guise. Oyster-stuffed potatoes served with lentils and shrimp needs making and eating swiftly. Recipes for veal snout or rice with sausage, artichoke and black truffle truly delight. A dessert of aubergines with chocolate may challenge even a stout heart.
But it must be said that although the recipes thrill, without the authentic produce, these dishes will be hard to emulate. Of course, this is true of all great cooking and of all great chefsÁ¢Â books. So, a swift flight and a lunch reservation (that may well continue through to dinner) at Don Alfonso to eat that food in situ is taking on an irresistible appeal for me.
Jeremy Lee, head chef, Blue Print CafÁ©, London
Alfonso Iaccarino Á¢ÂÂ" Alfonso Iaccarino, Bibliotheca Culinaria Á£120
ISBN 8886174241Á