Asian restaurants deserve recognition

It was most refreshing to read the very incisive and balanced views of Shaun Hill in the article appropriately titled "National debt" (Caterer, 22 October, page 52).

All cuisines - whether labelled ethnic or not - that have indulged in "table travel" and have come to stay in the UK have had a profound effect on the eating and cooking habits of the local population. None more so than Indian cuisine, which has added spice to the length and breadth of the country. It is, therefore, surprising and indeed disconcerting that the upmarket Indian or Chinese restaurants have yet to receive the recognition and respect that they deserve from food critics and the restaurant-going public.

Asian cooking in this country - over the past few years in particular - has experimented and developed in order to cater to a different climate and culture, and to changing times and tastes. It has probably done more to bridge the gap between East and West than any other initiative. What is remarkable, however, is the reluctance of some food writers to appreciate that no cuisine remains static, be it at home or in a new environment.

Speaking specifically for Indian cuisine: it will retain its popularity and prominence in the UK if it continues to evolve, without, of course, losing sight of its traditions and "origins".

I hope that Shaun Hill's article will go some way towards convincing the food press to recognise openly the quality of ethnic restaurants and also accept that, like everything else, the food of a country is open to outside influences and is part of the ongoing process of evolution.

Samar Hamid, Operations Director, Café Lazeez, London SW7.