Battle of the chefs

01 January 2000
Battle of the chefs

An aircraft hangar is not the easiest place in which to cook. Add the fact that your every move is being scrutinised by a panel of judges, and preparing a two-course meal becomes quite a task.

But chefs who are used to cooking in such odd places as on board a submarine or under tarpaulin in a field took it all in their stride at the 1999 Combined Services Culinary Competition. Top of the pile was Leading Chef Bob Brown, who clinched the title of Inter-Services Chef of the Year on the third day of the event.

Brown's two dishes more than satisfied the judging criteria of creativity, workmanship, composition, presentation and taste at the competition, hosted by RAF Halton in Buckinghamshire.

Worthy winner

"He had good textures and the flavours were just right," said Nick Vadis, head chef at the Robinson College Executive Centre, Cambridge, and a former RAF warrant officer. "His composition and use of ingredients created a great dish worthy of a winner."

Vadis was one of a judging panel that included Kevin Viner of Pennypots restaurant, Cornwall; David Walklate, executive chef, Gategourmet UK; and Ian Cowley, senior instructional officer of the Army School of Catering, St Omer Barracks, Aldershot.

Brown, who has been Navy Chef of the Year three times and is a member of the Combined Services Culinary Arts Team, was pleased with the basket of ingredients he was given to work with. The main list was available one month before the three-day competition, but the chefs learnt the identity of two mystery ingredients only an hour before the cook-off.

"They were good, fresh ingredients," said Brown, whose two extra items were a salmon fillet and a boneless corn-fed chicken breast. "I like to cook simple food with real, earthy flavours."

His two dishes comprised a starter of pan-roasted salmon délice on a lime, fennel and mango salsa, warm tomato and courgette vinaigrette; and a main course of suprême of chicken with a duxelle of forestière mushrooms on a confit of celery, carrot and baby turnip, scallopine potatoes, glazed shallots, and red wine reduction gravy.

A total of 18 chefs - six each day - took part in the heats and each had 45 minutes to prepare, cook and serve two courses for two covers. Although the main basket of ingredients was identical for all of the chefs, the mystery items differed: instead of the salmon and chicken presented to Brown and his fellow competitors on day three, day one competitors had breast of Aylesbury duck and queen scallops, and on day two there was rack of lamb and sea bream fillet.

The chefs were graded each day. Those scoring 90% or more were awarded gold medals, 75% or more silver, 65% or more bronze, and 55% or more a certificate of merit, with the highest-scoring gold medallist becoming the overall Inter-Services Chef of the Year. A chef of the year from each service was also chosen.

"The standard has been superb," said Brian Gunn, Master Craftsman of the Craft Guild of Chefs and a member of the judging panel. "We're pushing towards the level of the National Chef of the Year competition and maintaining consistent standards as set by ruling bodies such as the World Association of Chefs' Societies (WACS). There's no point us giving a gold medal for 75% here if standards elsewhere are higher.

Same standard

"Judges are looking for accuracy of knife work, a business-like manner, control of ingredients, not wasting food - meaning using by-products in stocks and sauces - realistic garnishes, appropriate accompaniments, and control of cooking processes. The fact that the competition is over three days doesn't make a difference to the judging - we're very careful to maintain the same standard of judging from day to day."

Both Gunn and Vadis agreed that the competition got better from day to day. "The last heat was the best in terms of flavours and the way the chefs conducted themselves on the ranges," said Vadis.

Brown was glad to be competing on the final day. "It was good to take part on the last day having watched the other two heats," he said, "although in a way it puts more pressure on - you're expected to get gold."

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