Better Business – The Black Boy, Headington
Chris Bentham and Abigail Rose took on the Black Boy just as the banking crisis hit. Despite a slow start, their traditional gastropub has seen business continue to grow. Aaron Morby reports
Need to know
Business partners Chris Bentham and Abigail Rose, who met while working for Raymond Blanc, took on the Black Boy pub in Oxfordshire in 2008, just as the world slid into the banking crisis. It is their first pub after they previously launched the High Table brasserie and bar in Oxford for its owner a few years before.
Their new business venture - located in the old village of Headington, just outside Oxford - revives the virtues of the traditional gastropub, a movement both feel lost its way as prices were pushed ever higher and quality fell.
The interior of the 1930s roadhouse looks more like a restaurant than a pub nowadays, with a modern dining area and parquet flooring. The change of ownership has also seen the image of a servant child exchanged for a black horse. Today the Black Boy draws in a professional crowd and their families from the Oxford catchment area, with a simple offering of good quality food at good prices.
Chef Chris Bentham explains: "We were really trying to bring back the traditional gastropub, before main courses were being charged out at £20. We firmly believe that done properly, the gastropub has a great future."
Business start-up
Bentham and Rose first met 10 years ago when they were both working for Raymond Blanc. Bentham worked at Le Petit Blanc (now Brasserie Blanc) for nine years and Le Manoir for six months, while Rose waitressed at Le Manoir for four years. The two hit it off, decided to become business partners, and spent two-and-a-half years searching for the right pub in Oxfordshire.
Both say their time with Raymond Blanc was inspirational and spurred them into running their own business.
"Raymond has a good working ethos and philosophy. He executes everything so well - the food at Le Manoir sings, while Brasserie Blanc offers rustic, delicious, well-paced dishes inspired by Maman Blanc," says Rose.
"I really learned that patience is a virtue; you have to relax and understand what you are doing. Of course, passion for food rubs off as well," adds Bentham.
"The Black Boy was a great opportunity despite the economic climate. We were able to sign a lease for a year for £26,000. This gave us a real chance to see what we could do with the pub, before committing to a 25-year lease with Greene King," he explains.
Food offering
The Black Boy takes the fine-dining concept and turns it on its head to offer customers well-priced, home-made food. Bentham and Rose have brought with them the passion and love of food they developed while working with Blanc.
The pub is a good size and has room for 74 seats, with a kitchen of six headed by Bentham serving about 550 covers a week. Starters are kept below £7, and main courses cluster around £10, but can rise to £14 on the à la carte menu.
"We make sure we make something for everyone. That means always having a gluten-free and a vegan option," explains Rose.
Food sales account for about 70% of total takings, with local favourites of roasted pork belly, herb-encrusted cod loin and fish cakes with chive beurre blanc sauce served up regularly.
The kitchen produces home-made bread every day as well as its own sorbet and ice-cream. A small bar area, which seats about 10, serves home-made pork scratchings.
Financials
When the Black Boy opened, takings in the first week amounted to just £800. Since then the business has flourished as word spread and, in spite of the recession, sales are back on course at £12,000 to £15,000 a week.
Favourite supplier
Premier Cheese in Beaconsfield keeps the Black Boy's cheeseboard varied. "Director Eric Charriaux is passionate about cheese. They have the most amazing selection and deliver fabulously consistent products every time," says Rose.
The firm also offers customer-branded butter and yogurts and its Stilton au Porto won an accolade at last year's World Cheese Awards.
Future development
Both Rose and Bentham are ambitious about building a bigger business.
"We can't fit many more people in so the time has come to expand the business, as planned when we took on the long-term lease," says Rose, who explains that the Black Boy is ideally situated for several major hospitals, offering the potential to develop a small but thriving hotel business. The plan is to tap into demand with five boutique-style rooms, charged at £100 to £140 a night.
"We are very confident the demand is there and expect to be taking on doctors and travelling consultants when we open," adds Rose.
The revamp also includes plans for a conservatory, which will push seating towards the 100 mark.
"We are paying ourselves a salary of £40,000; beyond that we are putting all the profits back into the business," explains Rose. "This investment will have a three-year payback."
"Keeping the pub child and family friendly is something Abigail Rose believes in fervently. Instead of having a child's menu, the Black Boy prefers to offer smaller portions from the main and à la carte menus. Cooking classes for four to 12-year-olds, which are extremely popular and fully booked until November, are also held every Sunday.
"Children learn simple, easy recipes that they can recreate at home," says Rose. "I do believe children should be educated in food from an early age and the best way to do it is to get them cooking as early as possible.
"We are embracing the French culture by encouraging children into the Black Boy, as Raymond has always encouraged them at Le Manoir and Brasserie Blanc."
Classes of six are charged at £10 per child and cover a mix of savoury and sweet dishes, ranging from cherry tomatoes and mozzarella filo to white chocolate and raspberry tiramisu.
"It's not about the money; it's just something I think we have to do," she adds.
abigail rose's revelations
Favourite hotel Le Petit Cheval Blanc, Morzine-Avoriaz, France
Favourite restaurant Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons
Favourite pub The Bat and Ball, Cuddesdon, Oxfordshire
What book has inspired you Eat Pray Eat by Michael Booth
Motto Let the product speak for itself
If you weren't a pub owner, what would you have been? A lawyer
Which chef do you most admire? Raymond Blanc
Describe your business in five words Good food at good prices
Facts and stats
Owners Chris Bentham & Abigail Rose
Staff 14
Average cost of meal £25 (no drink)
Average number of covers 550 per week
Average beer/wine consumption £3,500 per week
During the years Chris and Abigail worked for me, a strong respect was established. Chris is highly disciplined, organised and a fantastic team player. Abigail is a wonderful front-of-house host. All of my life I have tried to grow and nurture young talent. Chris and Abigail are consummate professionals, have good work ethics and personalities, offer consistent service and plan ahead - all of this is why I knew they would be successful in setting up their own business in a time of recession when others have failed. It is gratifying to see these young people create their own success - they have created a good business model that everyone should look at.
Raymond Blanc
