Bush tucker men
Catering for a collection of hungry travellers on a journey across the African bush may sound like a logistical nightmare, but is it? Corinne Hitching speaks to some overland cooks to find out.
Any chef who has ever had the desire to break out of a cooped-up kitchen could find no greater contrast than a job cooking in the midst of the African bush. Not only does this alternative involve cooking over open fires, as well as not knowing from one day to the next what produce will be available for dinner, it will also mean nights under canvas with the roar of lions and the grunts of hippos serenading you to sleep.
Despite having restricted cooking facilities in the open, overland operators never seem to have a problem finding quality chefs to accompany them on treks.
"Why would I want to work in a hotel when I can have the chance to see the beautiful African country with such rare sights as a leopard killing a cheetah just outside camp?" asks Hamad Habib, a chef with Eco-resorts, a company offering adventure camping trips in East Africa. "I previously worked as an assistant chef at a beach hotel, but my strong desire to travel took over. Now I would never think of working for a hotel again - the challenges of finding clean water, charcoal firewood, keeping food without proper refrigeration and fighting off baboons which make off with the only bread or eggs you have is much more exciting."
Most cooks working on overland tours in Africa are employed locally. As well as overland operators generally paying better wages than local hotels, there is also the possibility of good tips from clients and the opportunity to meet Western people and learn new languages. Treks can last anything from five to 15 days, so stocking up on goods before departure is essential. Dry staple items such as flour, sugar, tea, coffee and dried milk are packed into the truck to cater for the duration of the trip, but fresh fruit, vegetables, meat and fish are bought from markets and traders en route.
The most popular method of cooking is over open fires - roasts, casseroles, spits, stir-fries, and even lasagne and cakes are all cooked this way. A pig spit roast is always popular with clients. Johannes Johannes, a Kenyan cook who is experienced at slaughtering, says: "Roast pig is a good option as it is juicy no matter what age the animal is. Goat is another option, but can be a bit chewy with age."
While the majority of meat served is familiar to the Western palate, there is also the opportunity to try local game, such as impala, ostrich, crocodile and kudu. However, many clients prefer to see the game rather than eat it. Fish, such as such as bream, tilapia and catfish, may be bought at markets or caught en route.
Kiteme Rutunga, who works with a number of tour operators, recently prepared a meal of broiled Nile perch with a nutmeg and cream sauce for a pair of restaurateurs from Weymouth. "They were absolutely amazed that something so good could be prepared in such basic conditions," he says, modestly.
Habib agrees that food always tastes better in the bush, even if it is the same food as is served in a restaurant. "It must be the fresh air and wood fires," he says. But he adds: "There can be problems, of course. Clients returning to camp late after an extended game drive means having to reheat food - not easy over charcoal."
Everyone must wash their hands with soap and disinfectant before touching food, and dishes are not only washed with soap, but also rinsed in cold water and a sterilising mixture and then again in plain water before being air-dried.
Vegetables are always washed in a disinfectant solution, such as baby-bottle steriliser or potassium permanganate, to ensure that they are free from dirt and germs. Water is always treated, although the chefs believe it is rarely the source of health problems. All the tour operators we spoke to say their passengers rarely get sick, and if they do it is more likely to be due to the climate, altitude, heat or even eating in a restaurant rather than the food or water served in the camp.
Opportunities in the African bush
Most overland operators are always on the lookout for people willing and able to lead a group of travellers as well as cook for them. While most cooks are employed locally, it is worth asking the tour operators about opportunities.
Kumuka Expeditions (020 7937 8855) says that it would definitely consider taking a cook from the UK. Of course, pay is not comparable with British wages, although perks and experience may compensate.
