Chef Award

HIS food is vibrant, the flavour of the moment, and is executed to the very highest level. According to the judges of arguably the most coveted title in chef circles, Gordon Ramsay can no longer be ignored.

"You see his food mimicked all over the place," comments Rick Stein, judge and recipient of the 1999 Chef Award. "I know he has sent out a lot of wrong messages," adds fellow judge Anton Edelmann, "but he has sent out very good messages too about the food in this country produced by British chefs."

Criticised for the image portrayed by him in last year's television documentary series Ramsay's Boiling Point (following which Ramsay was accused of making catering students turn their backs on their chosen careers), he has since worked hard to redress the balance through his books (his third, A Chef for All Seasons, is published this September), food demonstrations and his educational series on Carlton Food Network.

Victim of his own success

In contrast, however, the 33-year-old chef's cooking is rarely doubted. This year alone, his restaurant, which relocated to the old La Tante Claire on London's Royal Hospital Road two years ago, has maintained five AA rosettes, two Michelin stars and nine out of 10 in the Good Food Guide. Time Out declares him "a master of his profession and a victim of his own success. Even in August, the graveyard month for restaurants, getting a table involved negotiation."

Ramsay's career is well documented, but it was his time with Marco Pierre White at Harvey's in Wandsworth which is seen by his peers and Ramsay himself as a pivotal moment. "Marco missed nothing; his personal touch was everywhere," explains Ramsay in his first book, Passion for Flavour. "No food was allowed to leave his kitchen until it had gained his approval." It was a style Ramsay admired and one he would later replicate.

From Harvey's, Ramsay moved to renowned London restaurant Le Gavroche in Mayfair, an appointment that he also describes as fruitful. But he was eager to go to France and the next two years saw him in the kitchens of Joâl Robuchon and Guy Savoy. "From the first day he arrived in my kitchen," says Savoy, "I was enthralled by his vivacity and personality. His attention to detail is exemplary: for example in the strawberry garnish for his cräme brñlée, he uses a wonderful method of drying the fruit which makes it crispy and accentuates the taste. It is small discoveries like these which can make an unremarkable dish outstanding and, in turn, a competent cook a genius."

Leading New York chef Daniel Boulud agrees. "French cooking is still considered by many to be the mother of all cuisines and Gordon has not only understood it completely, but has used it as a springboard to create his own culinary identity." n