Chef Daniel Boulud: Cooking in New York city

30 April 2003 by
Chef Daniel Boulud: Cooking in New York city
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The latest book to hit my shelves at Pennyhill Park from US shores is *Chef Daniel Boulud: Cooking in New York City*. This is a book which sets out to capture the spirit of the Boulud empire, but what also comes across is Boulud's devotion to the city where his dreams have come to fruition. As for the food, BouludÁ¢Â€Â™s style is displayed in 75 recipes, beautifully scripted and laid out in a concise and intelligent format. They give an insight not only into his flagship restaurant, Daniel, but also the cafÁƒÂ© and bistro arms of his empire, so the reader gets a broad selection of his culinary repertoire rather than just the fine-dining end of things. Quality raw materials, well sourced and respectfully balanced, are at the heart of his style, and the book contains a catalogue of dishes executed in a disciplined and creative way. ItÁ¢Â€Â™s fair to say, though, that originality among US chefs is left more to the likes of Thomas Keller and Charlie Trotter. Those seeking new inspiration could be disappointed. What Boulud achieves better than most, however, is the use of his classical French heritage as a foundation to build a confident lightness in his cooking. ItÁ¢Â€Â™s in dishes like fresh crayfish with stuffed morel fricassÁƒÂ©e, which not only looks stunning but tastes wonderful. ItÁ¢Â€Â™s also nice to see boeuf en gelÁ¢Â€Âše Á¢Â€Â" which cries out for a sunny alfresco setting. Throughout the pages there are snippets of his culinary ideology. I liked, too, the fact that he included wine recommendations along with a brief note explaining their choice. On the whole, this is a book for chefs and avid foodies Á¢Â€Â" imagine trying to source piballes in the local shop. They are, in fact, live baby eels the size of worms; I would love to get hold of some, if only to create mischief. Marc Wilkinson, head chef, Latymer restaurant, Pennyhill Park hotel, Bagshot, Surrey *Chef Daniel Boulud: Cooking in New York city Daniel Boulud and Peter Kaminsky Assouline US$34.95 (in UK bookshops for about Á‚£25) ISBN: 2-84323-370-4*
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