Chefs behind the chefs: Angela Hartnett and Diego Cardoso

20 December 2013 by
Chefs behind the chefs: Angela Hartnett and Diego Cardoso

In the next part of our occasional series on chefs behind the chefs, Kerstin Kühn speaks to Angela Hartnett and Diego Cardoso of London's Murano, who have worked together since 2002

Angela Hartnett, chef-proprietor, Murano

It was a big deal when we bought Murano. Suddenly you're the one in control: it's your money and you answer to the banks and shareholders so you have to have an understanding of the business. Ultimately, it's my responsibility but Diego runs the kitchen day-to-day; he covers the food costs, deals with suppliers, manages the staff - he treats the restaurant as though it was his own.

I'm not so hands-off that I don't get involved but I trust him completely. He is a very good cook; every dish he presents is fantastic. Three years ago, I'd have a lot more involvement in the menu but now he does it off his own back and I'm happy to go with it. It's important to allow your chefs to have the freedom to do their thing and grow but they also have to appreciate at the same time that they are working under someone and follow what the restaurant is about.

Diego is a very calm person and he's extraordinarily organised. All the things that most cooks aren't good at - the health and safety, folders, lists and things you have to do - he does quickly and efficiently and he has great systems in place.

He definitely has the ability to have his own restaurant. I don't hold a gun to anyone's head and I would never force anyone to stay, but would always support them and let them go with my blessing. But Diego is getting much more involved as things are growing. He helped me open Merchant's Tavern, for instance, and I think that keeps him interested. Maybe that's enough - there are a lot of very talented boys and girls out there who are better than their head chefs but not everyone wants to do it for themselves. It's also about having a life outside work - your restaurant might be your life but it's not everyone else's."

Diego Cardoso, head chef, Murano
"I moved to London from Argentina and was working at the Connaught but looking for another job when Gordon Ramsay took over the food operation and Angela was put in charge. It was a very exciting time - Ramsay was the hottest chef in town then - so I decided to stay on.

I enjoyed working with Angela right 
from the start. We like the same things in food and have a real connection in that way. She is very warm and approachable. She's straightforward and knows what she wants but 
she doesn't babysit anyone and gives people the freedom to grow by making their own 
mistakes.

After five years with Angela at the Connaught I left just before it closed to set up her restaurant Cielo in Florida. I was there for nine months and it was a really exciting project in many aspects, especially as it was in a different country, which made it hugely challenging but interesting.

I came back and worked at Ramsay's restaurants in Dubai and Versailles, worked on the F Word TV show and helped to close the Savoy Grill. So even though I've only worked for one person, I've had a lot of different opportunities and I'm very grateful for that.

When we opened Murano in 2008, it was my first ever head chef position. It was so exciting - we had all the critics in and won our Michelin star after a few months.

After Angela bought the restaurant from Gordon Ramsay Holdings, it was a very interesting transition. It was great in many ways but we also lost the support of being part of a big group, so some things became more demanding. But I like a challenge and it was definitely the best thing to do, and the restaurant has gone from strength to strength since.

As Angela opens more restaurants I get involved as much as she wants me to but Murano is my number one priority.

I'm very good at organising the kitchen and a lot of the things that she doesn't like doing so much, like paperwork for instance, I take off her hands.

It has always been my dream to have my own restaurant and one day I hope to. Right now I'm really happy working with Angela and even if I did go on to open my own place, she'd definitely be involved."

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