Cognac must get the knack
Cognac has never quite acquired the cachet that made it, along with Tanqueray, the favoured drink of the rap music elite in the USA. Over here, Cognac remains a bit like Barclay James Harvest or Yes, a pomp-rock kind of drink - overblown, pretentious and far too self-important to be bothered to engage with the general public.
Cognac houses have spent nearly a decade talking of the need to make their drink accessible, yet simply went on releasing new brands that were so expensive you could have bought a yacht for the cost of a shot.
But things are changing. The international market has seen the launch of lifestyle brands such as Rémy Red and Silver and Hennessy White as houses start trying to tailor their product to the hip young market.
The most recent arrival is less sensational, but in many ways shows how seriously the Cognac industry is taking this latest challenge. It comes from Hine, whose Cognacs are the benchmark for discreet, elegant charm. As Hine's marketing director, Olivier Delmotte, is fond of saying: "We need to open new doors." He's right. For too long, Cognac has been a private club which you needed either a platinum credit card or a secret handshake to enter. Hine VSOP is the key to the door.
This new release (Paragon Vintners, 020 7887 1800) has more palate weight than the traditional, elegantly restrained Hine house style - seen at its best with Rare & Delicate, Antique and Family Reserve. It's a deliberate move - a Cognac to please the newcomer. A 60:40 blend of Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne Cognacs, it has an attractive, floral, softly fruity nose with ripe flavours of chestnut honey, oak and summer fruits on the pillowy palate.
"It's not easy to enter Cognac," said Delmotte. "The character of Rare & Delicate, and Antique, is one to enjoy if you know a little about Cognac, but we need to open doors for people who know a little less. The days of elitist brands have gone. This is a Cognac everybody can buy."
Hine VSOP has arrived as Rémy Martin has launched its new VS Grand Cru Cognac. (Maxxium, 01786 430500). Fresh and spicy, with a lively palate and a crunchy hazelnut finish, this is Rémy aiming squarely at the long-drinking mixer market - and not before time.
Recently, a source at Sopexa was quoted as saying: "Producers must stop pretending that all Cognac is superb, and get back to a Cognac culture of widespread quality." In other words, by all means have the ultra-expensive brands at the top, but get real and realise that the people on the street might like to try it as well.
With the latest new releases, the houses might have finally realised that.
by Dave Broom
