Family food, but definitely not kids' stuff

!

Let's make one thing clear: this is not a children's cookery book. By deliberately eschewing the more unusual combinations for which he has become famous, Heston Blumenthal has produced a book imbued with culinary intelligence and good taste. There is not a single recipe contained within its pages that does not appeal to me. Besides, anyone who would prefer not to eat haricots à la crème, roast rib of beef, proper chips, rice pudding or couscous with ratatouille (not necessarily in that order), does not deserve to be eating good food in the first place and would probably be better off reading some low-fat or vegetarian nonsense. The book is laid out in straightforward fashion, starting with snacks and finishing, unsurprisingly, with desserts. But be sure not to miss the introductory sections, the most interesting bits of any cookery book. In them, the author mentions such luminaries as Harold McGee and Anthony Blake, and explains how the adoption of a broader and more "scientific" stance has formed his particular philosophy. The fact that Blumenthal has tempered his considerable technical knowledge is admirable and means that your average punter will have no problems following the recipes. There is a lot of food here that lends itself to communal and family occasions. Braised dishes, risottos and roasts are perfect for larger gatherings, and it is this canny choice of dishes as much as anything which promotes the book as one suitable for families. Trying to get my kids to concentrate on anything, let alone behaving remotely sensibly in a kitchen, is pretty well impossible, but my three plus a couple of their friends did attempt Blumenthal's mum's cheesecake. The recipe was fine and the said cake turned out a treat. However, splitting egg yolks from their whites did prove troublesome. There was more yellow stuff on the ceiling than in the receptacle I provided, but we got there in the end. *Family Food* is a top cookery book - thoughtful, provocative and above all, full of common sense, not a quality associated with Blumenthal's food by those who misunderstand him. It is hard to see how any serious cook would not benefit by owning a copy. Bruce Poole, chef-proprietor, Chez Bruce, London *Family food* *By Heston Blumenthal Penguin/Michael Joseph, £20 ISBN 0-718-14436-8*