Forced to agree with my mutinous crew

There was a bit of a mutiny among the crew here a month or so back. We had closed for a week's break in May and I thought us all sufficiently rested to work through until winter. In fact I had roped off a nice week in November when the level of trade is reliably poor - but my two colleagues were not prepared to wait that long.

The upshot was that we closed for a few days last week and went to Scotland, spending two days in glorious sunshine eating very fine grub at Airds hotel in Port Appin. On the way up we stayed a night at Sharrow Bay for a similarly reinvigorating experience. In this rare case, Anja and Claire were right and I was wrong, for it was a genuine treat in the midst of a busy period.

It was interesting to notice, however, that neither place allows smoking in the dining room while people are eating, and that Sharrow asks the guests not to smoke in the rooms either. This suits us, as we do not smoke, but the operation of a no-smoking policy in the dining room here at the Merchant House has been controversial on occasions.

The problem is that those who smoke feel persecuted. One chap recently droned on to all and sundry about "smokers' rights", whatever that may mean, and others over the past few months have stood outside on the pavement to have a fag rather than use our drawing room - presumably to emphasise their victimisation. They are in lots of company - in their opinion, of course. The majority of restaurant critics who have eaten here seem to have been heavy smokers, and some of the most influential complain regularly in their columns about those who lessen their pleasure by such restrictions.

I have only limited sympathy, I'm afraid - even though I myself used to smoke 20 years ago. It isn't that difficult to complete a meal without a cigarette, and only a minor hardship to waddle into an adjoining room if it proves otherwise for you. The real issue is not smokers' rights but the rights of non-smokers to eat and drink in a reasonably clean and clear space. Perhaps advances in air conditioning will solve the problem? But until then…

Shaun Hill is chef-proprietor of the Merchant House, Ludlow, Shropshire

Next diary from Shaun Hill: 12 November