Inspiration to go it alone

Cooking at the Merchant House tells of the trials and tribulations encountered by Shaun Hill and his wife while setting up their own restaurant in the rural Welsh Marches after Hill left the relatively comfortable position of head chef at the renowned Gidleigh Park, Devon, in 1994.

They bravely opted to convert a large Jacobean house in the unspoilt market town of Ludlow for their solo venture, and the Merchant House opened its doors in December 1994. But not before the Hills had tackled major planning permission issues, assessed the availability of local produce and, more importantly, the pool of discerning local customers who were willing to eat well for "a modest sum".

Well-defined chapters interspersed with short interludes offer Hill's wry, witty and astute insights into the trade, as we are taken on a refreshing journey through his working schedule. Time for tantrums is simply not available in this single-handed kitchen, and we are made all too aware that the donning of a pair of rubber gloves to wash pots rather than hobnobbing in the restaurant after service is just one factor in the financial success of a small operation.

Recipes, ranging from a simple salad cream to wild duck with celeriac and morels, are included, all with points to watch and side notes to warn of any pitfalls. These, along with the clear and interesting photography by Jason Lowe, give the reader, professional or amateur, a real urge to have a go.

Andrew Pern, chef-proprietor, the Star Inn, Harome, North Yorks