Kiwis go red

New Zealand first made it on to the vinous map with its striking whites - rich, pungent Sauvignon Blanc and fine, fruity Chardonnay. But what about its reds? Most agree that with one or two exceptions Kiwi reds have lagged way behind the country's whites, and that the long, cool ripening season - in the Marlborough region on the South Island in particular - is better suited to the production of aromatic whites and sparkling wine than rich reds.

Now that looks set to change. There are two factors at play: first, New Zealand's wine-makers have worked hard to get reds right, and their labours are finally paying off. Better clones, better sites and more thorough research have led to the right black varieties being planted in the right spots lately.

Suited to the climate

This has seen a dramatic rise in the amount of Pinot Noir planted. Marlborough is the most exciting region in this respect - its wine-makers are talking about Pinot as the red answer to Sauvignon Blanc. They could be right: Pinot seems better suited to the climate than Cabernet Sauvignon. Longer-established Pinot-growing regions such as Martinborough (North Island) and Canterbury (South Island) continue to produce fine reds, while warmer Hawke's Bay (North Island) and Waiheke Island - a small dot of land in Auckland harbour - make Bordeaux blends and, more recently, have started to produce Syrah.

The second factor that should persuade the world to drink New Zealand reds is the fine vintage of 1998, the fruits of which have recently appeared in the UK.

This hot, dry year was not the best one for making cooler-climate, aromatic whites, of course, but it produced a splendid set of rich, ripe reds, especially in Hawke's Bay, where wine-makers described it as the best vintage for decades. "We had perfect conditions for reds in 1998," said one wine-maker I met on a trip to the country in mid-1999.

With new vineyards coming on stream and most wine-makers determined to make decent reds, this fine vintage could not have come at a better time. The Kiwis claim they have made wines that combine richness with the elegance typical of a relatively cool climate. It's fair to say that if critics and consumers don't go for New Zealand reds from 1998, they probably never will. Caterer decided to put a group of wines to the taste test.

The tasters

We tasted 25 red wines from New Zealand in the beautiful surroundings of the George hotel in Yarmouth on the Isle of Wight. Our expert panel included Jeremy Willcock and Jacki Everest, respectively owner and general manager of the George; Mark Walters, head sommelier, Chewton Glen, New Milton; Clive Roberts, chef-proprietor, Old Forge, Storrington; David Harris and Fiona Sims, respectively news editor and wine editor of Caterer; and freelance wine writer Susy Atkins.

The wines came from many regions around New Zealand, but they were all made in the 1998 vintage. There were 11 Bordeaux blends, eight Pinot Noirs, and some single-varietal Merlots and Syrahs. We tasted the wines blind.

What we found

The wines scored well as a group. New Zealand reds have been criticised in the past for their inconsistency, but this tasting revealed an even set of marks, with few superstars but even fewer dud bottles. Nearly every wine was awarded at least a respectable score, and 14 received high marks - a superior performance, to say the least.

Inevitably, there were criticisms. "There were no bad wines, but there were not many complex wines either," said Willcock. Most panellists agreed. "I only found one or two that were poor, but few that were actually exciting," was another verdict.

Still, the panel was impressed by the Pinot Noirs in particular. "They would stand up well in competition with California, South Africa and Australia," said Roberts. "After tasting this lot, I'd say that New Zealand Pinot has great potential," said Walters. The best examples we tried certainly had lovely fresh fruit, good acidity and a ripe, smooth finish. The panel suggested serving the best examples with creamy cheeses, sweetbread or spring lamb - "something with an inherent sweetness", as Fiona Sims put it.

For all the panel's niggling - "We couldn't spot the varietal character in the Syrah," was another complaint - it was difficult to spoil New Zealand's day. This was a good set of reds from a country that, five years ago, would have failed to produce anything like the same standard. They may have enjoyed a fabulous vintage in 1998, but it looks as if New Zealand reds are here to stay. n