Man with a life-long love of cooking
Allan Holland, co-owner of country house hotel Mallory Court, near Leamington Spa, Warwickshire, is remembered by his friend and fellow hotelier, Peter Herbert, of Gravetye Manor, near East Grinstead, West Sussex.
Allan Holland, proprietor of Mallory Court hotel and restaurant, died of cancer on Saturday, 29 September, as reported in last week's edition of Caterer.
Allan was born in 1943, educated at Solihull Boys' Grammar School, and initially joined his family's retail business. He went on to own his own shops in both Sutton Coldfield and Lichfield.
However, in 1975 his life-long interest in food led him to John Tovey's cookery school at Windermere in the Lake District, but beyond this tuition he was entirely self-taught. The fates had it that he met Jeremy Mort on the course, together with the late Michael Smith, that great champion of British food.
In 1976, Allan and Jeremy, who had worked in hotels in Europe, bought Mallory Court, and entered into a life-long partnership. Initially they were literally the only staff, doing everything between them.
Michael became a regular visitor, staying during the filming of his food programmes at the BBC's Pebble Mill studios. Many were the late-night conversations between Allan and Michael, swapping notes about their mutual enthusiasm, cooking. In the mid-1980s Allan was awarded a coveted Michelin star, which he held for some eight years as chef-patron.
In 1998, Allan and Jeremy embarked on a massive refurbishment of the relatively small country house, originally built for Sir John Black, chairman of Standard Motors, in 1901.
It virtually doubled in size, with completely new kitchens and a glorious terrace leading on to the charming gardens. Over the years those gardens had been patiently restored and returned to the original plans, found in the loft in their early days.
In 1983, Mallory Court achieved membership of the Relais et Châteaux organisation and, for the past 10 years Allan was chairman of the British delegation and a member of the board of directors.
He worked tirelessly representing the interests of his colleagues in the UK, making frequent trips to Paris for international meetings, all in addition to his commitments at Mallory Court.
He will be remembered by his friends in the UK Relais organisation for his quiet efficiency, balanced judgement and patience in dealing with some 44 other proprietors, all with strong views of their own. Not an easy task.
It is tragic that Allan should be struck down by cancer at the age of 58 and when his ambitions and Jeremy's had so recently been achieved with the expansion of their beautiful hotel.
He had been due to stand down from his post in Relais et Châteaux next month. The British contingent was able to gather at Mallory Court for luncheon on a glorious day in late August and presented him with a magnificent bronze, The Wrestlers, by the sculptor Ian Rank Broadley.
In spite of Allan's frailty, he and Jeremy were perfect hosts on a memorable occasion and fittingly happy day.
Relais et Châteaux demands loyalty to the five Cs: courtesy, charm, character, calm and cuisine. I would add two more "Cs" in writing of Allan Holland: concern and compassion, qualities he exemplified in his everyday contact with his colleagues. We shall miss him greatly.
