Original Zin

26 October 2001 by
Original Zin

Zinfandel is big in California and starting to make waves over here. But its style ranges from simple and fruity to oaky and tannic, so where does it fit in? Susan Low and a Caterer panel attempt to put it in its place.

Zinfandel, as California's winemakers are ever keen to remind us, is the state's own "native grape". It's as American as apple pie and hotdogs, as Californian as a VW bus-load of skateboarding dotcom millionaires from Silicon Valley.

Zinfandel may be a wine that's proud of its heritage, but it presents a conundrum for restaurateurs. How, for example, do restaurant-goers know what the stuff is supposed to taste like? Fact is, in this part of the world, California wines are more closely associated with Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay than with Zinfandel. Cabernet-lovers can look to Bordeaux and Chardonnay-lovers to Burgundy for flavour clues; but where does Zinfandel fit into the vinous scheme of things?

To those in the know, Italy is an obvious answer, as DNA tests have now proved that Zinfandel and the southern Italian Primitivo grape are the same variety. But Californian Zins range freely across a gamut of styles, from young, simple and fruity to oaky, tannic and alcoholic (sometimes even verging on the "port-like"). Zin is even made into a "blush" style. Given its chameleon-like qualities, how can sommeliers and restaurateurs gauge which styles fit with which sorts of cuisine? And how do red Zinfandels shape up on the taste front? That's what this tasting set out to determine.

The panel

The tasting took place at the Vineyard at Stockcross in Berkshire. Since it opened in 1998, the Vineyard has won numerous awards for its broad-ranging US wine list. Last year it won the AA Wine Award for its wine list and wine service. This year it earned an award for Best American List, also from the AA; all in all, a suitable venue for putting our flight of 26 Zinfandels to the test.

The panel was led by Caterer wine editor Fiona Sims and included Isa Bal, sommelier at the Vineyard; Andy Sparrow, wine and beverage development executive for British Airways; Gérard Bassett, a director of the Hotel du Vin hotels; David Young, chief hotel and restaurant inspector for the AA; Emmanuel Defever, sommelier at the Fat Duck at Bray; and freelance food and drink writer Susan Low.

The tasting

Twenty-six Zinfandels, all red, were tasted. Vintages ranged from 1996 to 2000, with most coming from 1998 and 1999. Prices ranged from £53.67 to £290 per 12-bottle case, duty paid, excluding VAT. The wines were split into three categories according to wholesale price: up to £8 per bottle, between £8 and £12 per bottle, and above £12 per bottle. The wines were tasted blind.

The verdict

There was a huge variation in the styles of wines, but that didn't come as a great shock to tasters. As Bassett said: "I wasn't too surprised. Zinfandel is a very exuberant variety when it's young, but you get a bit of everything." He added: "It was an enjoyable tasting, because Zinfandel has so much character." Although there were some high marks (four wines earned three stars), particularly in the above-£12 category, there were mixed feelings among the panel about all the wines.

Not surprisingly, the above-£12 category came under the most stringent scrutiny. Despite the high marks, there were some misgivings. Of wines from the upper price band, Bal said: "Some I found completely unbalanced. The tannin, acidity and oak were all there, but the wines weren't always harmonious. On some, the finish and mid-palate were too lean." Defever agreed. "There were some really good wines there," he said, "but the balance seemed to be upset in some. Some of them seemed to be trying too hard"- a point that Sparrow picked up on when he asked: "Are these wines very nice? Or are they just demonstrating the ‘show syndrome'?"

The feeling of disappointment may have come about through the high expectations of the tasters. As Bassett said: "In the top section I was a bit disappointed, because I was expecting great things. But I couldn't see what was so different about them, apart from new oak. And there were some bad wines."

Feelings were generally more positive about the wines in the mid- and lower-priced ranges. "I certainly wasn't disappointed with the wines at the lower end," said Young. "I thought there was lots of fruit and that they showed typical Zin characteristics - that ‘in-your-face' jammy fruit. But, overall, the mid-range was the most successful." Bal was "pleased with the mid-range wines. Some of them, I thought, were very well made and people would be happy drinking them. The lower price range, too, because they offer what they promise."

Many wines fell well short of striking the right balance between fruit (which was often jammy, verging on stewed), tannin (which tended to be overdone on the pricier wines), oak (also overdone at the upper range) and alcohol. The high alcohol content - levels of 15% weren't unusual - was noted by a number of the tasters. While the tannin and oak may level out over time, high alcohol will always stick out like a sore thumb.

Confusingly, price and producer seemed to be the best indicators of wine style. Regional variations counted for less than either price or winemaker. When the balance is right, Zinfandel can be a wonderfully vibrant, fruity drink, a welcome change from Cabernet or Australian Shiraz. But with too few wines managing to pull off the balancing act, they can be difficult wines to sell as partners to food.

California Zinfandel wines - the results

Prices are per case of 12 DPD excluding VAT unless otherwise stated

\ Recommended
Very good
\
Best quality around

*
Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve 1998, California
£124.56, Kendall-Jackson
020 8747 2840

*
Clos du Bois Zinfandel 1998, California
£121.68, Hallgarten Wines
01582 722538

*
Cline Big Break Vineyards Zinfandel 1998, Contra Costa
£179.16, The Wine Treasury 020 7793 9999

*
Jacuzzi Family Vineyard 1996, Contra Costa
£145.62 (case of six), The Wine Treasury


Robert Mondavi Zinfandel 1998, Napa Valley
£148.59, Robert Mondavi
01608 658062


Frog's Leap Napa Valley Zinfandel 1999
£160, Morris & Verdin
020 7921 5300


Lolonis Zinfandel 1997, Redwood Valley, Mendocino
£148.20, Corney & Barrow
020 7539 3200


Beringer Vineyards Zinfandel 1997, North Coast
£77.76, Berkmann Wine Cellars
020 7609 4711


Ridge Geyserville Zinfandel 1998
£175, Morris & Verdin


Cline Ancient Vines Zinfandel 1999
£129.48, The Wine Treasury

*
Ridge Lytton Springs Zinfandel 1999
£180, Morris & Verdin

*
La Crema Reserve Zinfandel 1997, Sonoma
£87.84, Kendall-Jackson

*
Wente Vineyards Zinfandel 1999, Central Coast
£35.94 (case of six), Birchwood Agencies
01322 627500

*
Beringer Vineyards Zinfandel 1998, California
£63, Berkmann Wine Cellars

*
Woodbridge Twin Oaks Old Vine Zinfandel 1998, Lodi
£79, Robert Mondavi

*
Patrick Campbell Reds 1998, California
£77.64, Enotria
020 8961 4411

*
Bonterra Vineyards Zinfandel 1999, Mendocino
£48.96 (case of six), Brown-Forman
020 7323 9332

*
Blockheadia Ringnosii Zinfandel 1999, California
£146.64 The Wine Treasury

*
Lolonis Private Reserve Zinfandel 1997, Redwood Valley, Mendocino
£183.60, Corney & Barrow

*
Fritz Winery Old Vine Zinfandel 1997, Dry Creek
£220.68, The Wine Treasury

*
Dry Creek Vineyards Zinfandel 1997, Sonoma
£102, Vinifera Wines
020 8880 2525

We also tasted:

Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve 1998, California
£72.84, Kendall-Jackson

Gallo Sonoma Frei Ranch Zinfandel 1996, Dry Creek
£125, Heyman, Barwell Jones
(01473 232322)

Flat Rock Zinfandel 2000, California
£53.67, Waverley Wines & Spirits
(01738 472000)

Fetzer Valley Oaks Zinfandel 1998
£40.80 (case of six), Brown-Forman

Cypress Zinfandel 1999, California
£85.32, Enotria

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