Sandwich SURPRISE

01 January 2000
Sandwich SURPRISE

THERE is no tradition in America, so you can do anything you like. So said Jean-Georges Vongerichten when he paid a flying visit to London's Four Seasons hotel earlier this year.

In just three years, this "wunderkind" of the Nouvelle Cuisine era, still only 36 years old, has opened three New York restaurants: Jo Jo (his nickname), Vong and the Lexi Café.

Vong, a 146-seater, cross-culture, Franco-Thai brasserie has already been voted the Big Apple's top restaurant. It reflects the twin strands of his career - classic training on the three-star circuit with Haeberlin, Witzigman and the late Louis Outhier, plus eight years travelling from Bangkok, to Singapore and on to Hong Kong.

Tag on a six-month spell at 90 Park Lane and four years as head chef of the Lafayette (in the Gault Millau guide it scores 18/20) in the Drake Hotel, New York, and you have the profile of a chef with a hat full of skills and cross-fertilizing ideas.

These are qualities his New York public expect from him. He has clients who eat his food twice or even three times a week. They demand novelty and he supplies it. They also want cuisine without indigestion. It may be chic, but they don't want to dwell over their shrimp in spiced carrot juice, seven grains: a quick appreciative glance and down the hatch.

Vongerichten doesn't demand reverence, even though his dishes have the kind of style which sets critics oohing and aahing.

He's not afraid to break the first commandment of haute cuisine: "I'm against Escoffier." He learnt this non-conformist lesson when he took over the Lafayette. The restaurant was empty until he ditched the unambiguous French style.

Customers at Vong and Jo Jo spend $25 at lunch and $45 in the evenings. The prices are a lessonto chefs who think that gastronomy has to becostly.

The strawberry club sandwich typifies his approach. It's easy to assemble under pressure - Jo Jo may serve 50 portions during a service. But it requires a measure of deftness during the preparation. For the customers it provides a visual surprise, supported by a colourful palette of taste and textural experiences. n

chic, but they don't want to dwell over their shrimp in spiced carrot juice, seven grains: a quick appreciative glance and down the hatch.

Vongerichten doesn't demand reverence, even though his dishes have the kind of style which sets critics oohing and aahing.

He's not afraid to break the first commandment of haute cuisine: "I'm against Escoffier." He learnt this non-conformist lesson when he took over the Lafayette. The restaurant was empty until he ditched the unambiguous French style.

Customers at Vong and Jo Jo spend $25 at lunch and $45 in the evenings. The prices are a lessonto chefs who think that gastronomy has to becostly.

The strawberry club sandwich typifies his approach. It's easy to assemble under pressure - Jo Jo may serve 50 portions during a service. But it requires a measure of deftness during the preparation. For the customers it provides a visual surprise, supported by a colourful palette of taste and textural experiences. n

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