The Grove

The Grove in Chandler's Cross, Hertfordshire, which opened last September, is a hotel that defies traditional country house hotel conventions. While the exterior of the 227-bedroom, Grade II-listed property may look typically straight-laced and grand, inside it's an altogether different matter. Indeed, the interiors are decidedly fun and funky, with numerous works of modern art and futuristic furnishings interspersed with only the odd antique.

The hotel's 65-seat fine-dining restaurant, Colette's, which has its own entrance, similarly sees ancient and modern collide. All the original historic plasterwork mouldings, dating from when the mansion was home to the Earls of Clarendon, have been painstakingly restored, while dramatic colours, modern paintings and contemporary, cream-coloured leather furniture bring the restaurant up to date.

Head chef Chris Harrod has taken up the ancient-and-modern theme and run with it on his menus, aiming to combine classical combinations with stylish, modern presentation. "Dishes here are very much rooted in French cuisine, but using some modern techniques and textures, too," he says.

Harrod's dedication to classic combinations is no surprise. Before joining Colette's, in his first job as head chef, he worked as a chef de partie for Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons for four years, then as sous chef to Alan Murchison at L'Ortolan in Shinfield, Berkshire, for 18 months.

"Because of that, I am really grounded in French cooking," he says. "Even now, I would say that Raymond Blanc is the biggest mentor in my career. He taught me so much about the importance of both the impact of flavour and the lightness of dishes, and I am trying to develop both of those skills in the cooking I am doing here."

At dinner-only Colette's, Harrod and his 10-strong brigade offer a menu of seven starters, eight mains and seven desserts, plus cheese, with dishes being introduced and deleted when new ingredients come into season.

Hits on the current menu include a starter of white crab meat (£17.50). This is presented in a disk shape atop a thin layer of coriander-cured tuna, crowned with a very generous portion of sevruga caviar, the richness and saltiness of the ingredients cleverly offset with a flamboyant lemon dressing.

Among the mains, Harrod's presentation of mallard and foie gras (£26) also perfectly illustrates his aptitude for giving a modern interpretation to a classical combination. The meat of the mallard is wrapped around a generous portion of foie gras, then rolled in a fine layer of breadcrumbs before being roasted until crisp. The meat is then cut at a dramatic slant into two - the pieces are stood upright next to each other - revealing an oozing centre of foie gras. Finally, the plate is dressed with chicory braised with lemon thyme, served to cut through the meat's richness, and a red wine jus.

With desserts created by Harrod and his sous chef, John Footman, rather than a separate pastry kitchen, the same classic-with-a-twist philosophy is evident through to the end of a meal. A soft, almost mousse-like bitter chocolate tart (£11.50), for instance, is partnered with a scoop of praline ice-cream in a modish shot glass bubbling with a lemon thyme foam, again ensuring a balance of richness and acidity on the plate. n

Colette's, the Grove, Chandler's Cross, Hertfordshire WD3 4TG.
Tel: 01923 294222 Website:www.thegrove.co.uk

By Gaby Huddart