The Wai ahead
After taking over the premises of Michelin-starred restaurant Zaika, London's newest Chinese, Shi Hon Mei, has set its sights high. Tessa Fox reports.
Innovative new dishes sit alongside traditional Chinese favourites at London's Shi Hon Mei, the latest addition to Claudio Pulze's Cuisine Collection and the group's first Chinese restaurant. "People like something they know, so they can compare quality with other places. It gives them confidence," says Hong Kong-trained chef Wai Ho, recruited by Pulze to lead the 80-seat restaurant's brigade of six. "The new dishes are for excitement."
Opened in early December 2001, Shi Hon Mei is located at the Fulham Road site previously occupied by the group's Michelin-starred Indian restaurant, Zaika, which has moved to the capital's Kensington High Street. It will operate on the same principles as the other restaurants in the group, says Pulze - providing modern food in relaxed surroundings at good value for money.
Wai was most recently responsible for developing Oriental dishes for retail supplier S&A Foods and has also worked as senior sous chef at Harrods Restaurants and as head chef with the Zen Group. Having worked with Pulze to devise the menu, his aim is to "evolve the traditions of Chinese cuisine so that dishes are still authentic but lighter and more accessible for today's palate".
Among the 15 starters are steamed oysters with ginger juice (£5.95) and shredded chicken with kelp seaweed and star anise seed oil (£3.95), while the 13 main courses include poached beef in spicy broth with five-spice sauce (£7.95) and Wai's own favourite, lamb casserole with Oriental herbs (£7.50), which he describes as "rich and authentic".
More familiar dishes include crispy fried won tons (£3.50) - the won ton skins are currently bought in but will be made in-house in time - and spring rolls (£3.95), aromatic crispy duck (£8 per quarter/£15 for a half), chicken with cashew nuts (£6.95), and hot-and-sour Szechwan prawns (£11.95).
Wai's tip for a best seller is the starter of crispy fried prawn dumplings, which mix soft cheese, dried chilli and crab meat with tiger prawns (£4.95). He also expects that the stir-fried pak choi with smoked garlic (£4) and kim chi hot pickled vegetables (£1.50) will become favourite side dishes. As usual with Chinese menus, there is little emphasis on desserts, but the choices include red bean cake with ice-cream (£3.50) and plum wine sorbet (£3.50).
The contemporary food is matched by what Cuisine Collection calls a "contemporary ethnic" dining room designed by David D'Almada, using earthy colours and Oriental antiques. There is a front of house team of seven, and average spend per head is about £30.
Shi Hon Mei, 257-259 Fulham Road, London SW3 6HY. Tel: 020 7351 7823
A selection from the menu at Shi Hon Mei
Crispy shredded chicken with lettuce and plum sauce, £4.95
Sea bass slice, shiitake mushrooms and baby sweet corn in crispy batter, £5.95
Mooli and prawn in clear soup, £3.95
Fresh whole lobster with ginger and spring onion, £19.95
Deep-fried soft-shell crab with spicy salt and vegetables in batter, £9.95
Diced seafood on crispy noodle served in sesame leaves and lettuce puffs, £8 (serves two)
Sautéd lamb with garlic and leek, £7.95
Fillet of chicken coated with almond flake and lemon sauce, £6.95
Braised lean duck breast with chestnuts, £7.95
