Up on the roof
Fiona Sims savours the food and the views across London at Babylon in Kensington this week, while Diane Lane ventures south of the river to the White House in Clapham.
Kensington's newest restaurant, Babylon, can justifiably claim to have one of the best views of any London eaterie. Through its windows, the London Eye, Crystal Palace, Victoria Station and numerous other landmarks can be spotted. This is because the restaurant is on the top floor of the art deco building that's home to the far-famed Kensington Roof Gardens, owned by multi-millionaire entrepreneur Richard Branson.
General manager Peter Insall explains that he had been nagging Branson to make something more of the roof space - and the view - for some time, and proposed the restaurant. "Luckily, he went for it," he says.
The 110-seat Babylon faces south and its views can be enjoyed, more or less, from every seat. Obviously, the best seats are by the window or, on warmer days, out on the wooden-decked terrace, where there is space for a further 26 seats.
To reflect the earthy goings on in the garden outside, the brief to interior designer Kracka was to "keep things organic", so in the bar there's an eye-catching saltwater tank crammed with brightly coloured fish.
Head chef is Vincent Hiss, a Frenchman who trained with culinary legend Guy Savoy and who spent a "considerable amount of time" in the Spice Islands and South Africa. So his food has the odd exotic touch - for example, the lime-marinated halibut with papaya, green peppercorn, virgin olive oil and corn lettuce (£9.50). As this dish also illustrates, Hiss is in his element cooking fish, which dominates the menu, having become highly skilled with it in his previous job at Livebait.
The menu at Babylon will "change with the seasons" and, while not totally organic, uses as much organic produce as possible. "We're going for the best flavours possible," says Insall.
Hiss is often to be spotted out in the Roof Gardens plundering the produce - there are fig and apple trees and a big bed of herbs, too, which end up in many dishes. "The garden and the menu link is very strong," insists Insall. Among the dishes celebrating the garden are the starters of Stilton soufflé with dandelion and rocket and hazelnut dressing (£7.50), and the millefeuille of vine tomatoes and celeriac (£7.50). Main courses range from pot-roast lobster in its own juices with cauliflower (£32.50) to roast rack of lamb with caramelised sweetbread, hay sauce, green and butter beans (£19.50).
Average spend at the restaurant is £40 for dinner, not including drinks, and there's an introductory three-course lunch for £18.50.
A selection from the menu at Babylon
Summer vegetable risotto with Parmesan, £8
Pan-cooked Cornish squid, honey-glazed beetroot and sweet potatoes, horseradish cream, £9
Terrine of lamb fillet with Mediterranean vegetables and herb vinaigrette, £8.50
Caramelised Gloucestershire Old Spot pork tenderloin, gingered sweet potatoes, five-spice apple, £17.50
John Dory with sautéd artichoke and saffron red pepper sauce, £19
Fillet of brill pan-fried with clams, broad bean and tarragon broth, £18.90
Chocolate fondant with chocolate ice-cream and mint anglaise, £7.50
Spicy cake with lemon, kumquat and orange compote, £7.50
Babylon, The Roof Gardens, 99 Kensington High Street, London W8 5ED. Tel: 020 7368 3993
