Wareing sticks to first principles
Marcus Wareing, chef-patron of London's Petrus, surprised chefs at his workshop when he produced five portions each of six dishes from the restaurant's à la carte menu to digest, cogitate and deliberate over.
Wareing told delegates: "Food is about combinations of flavours. When you see my food it may look complicated to some and straightforward to others, but first and foremost it's about flavour, then I think about the garnish, presentation and how my front of house staff can get it from my basement kitchen to the customers."
As a result, Wareing said, he has introduced some forms of gueridon work at restaurant Petrus, which celebrated its second birthday just a few weeks ago.
He has also increased the number of dishes that require their jus to be ladled on to the plate at the table. "It all adds to the theatre," he said.
Among the dishes tasted were terrine of foie gras (confit of foie gras, cabbage, foie gras, all set in duck jelly) served with pickled vegetables, pear chutney and brioche; fillet of braised brill, served on a bed of Cos lettuce with ravioli of crab, gnocchi potatoes, asparagus and a velouté of crab and fresh morels; and tea cream (infused with Earl Grey), raisin cake and caramel tuile.
