A minute on the clock: Steven Doherty

25 August 2005
A minute on the clock: Steven Doherty

The Ramsay Scholar semi-finals were held in Birmingham this week. Restaurateur Steven Doherty, chairman of the judges' panel, spoke to Emily Manson about what makes the best of the best

What do you look for when judging the dishes?
A perfect execution of what we've asked them to do. This year, we've decided to ask them to do straightforward tasks, such as poaching eggs, slicing smoked salmon and roasting chicken. We realised last year that a lot of young cooks are missing out on basic skills, which are so important, so we wanted to strip them back and build from there. It's not catching them out, it's ensuring they learn the fundamentals.

How do you select the semi-finalists? From their answers about what they want to cook, why they want to be a chef and where they see themselves going. The cream always rises to the top in competitions - you can tell as soon as they start work who stands out and who's going to make it.

What's the best dish from the competition? Tristan Welch, who is now sous chef at London's Ptrus, cooked sturgeon in the 2003 final that was mind-blowing in its simplicity.
It was slowly confit-ed and served on a squash pure with a crisp julienne of apple, cut to order, and a blob of caviar. As soon as we tasted it, we knew we had a winner.

Have there been any disasters? Welch's in the semifinals, the same year - his roasted banana was somewhat bizarre. His other dishes got him through.

As well as judging the chefs' cooking, you also talk to them. Do you have a "killer question"? No, that's not what we're about at all. We try to bring out the best in people. It's hard enough, and we want to inspire people, not deflate them. We want chefs to enter this thinking: "I can be the next Gordon." As, indeed, some of them will be.

How important are these kinds of competitions? They are paramount and should remain so. They provide inspiration, encouragement and a dream for people. Roux's original concept - to help young people - has provided an amazing platform for a lot of phenomenal talent. But whether it's that competition or Ramsay's, they are crucial to our industry.

How does it affect the winners' careers? It's the first major step on the ladder to achieving their goals. They start out dreaming of success like Ramsay's, but can't quite see how to achieve it - but suddenly doors begin to open.

Why do you support this scholarship? I've known Gordon since 1991. He asked me to get involved four years ago, and I was absolutely delighted. It's an honour and I really enjoy being able to put something back into the industry and help inspire young people.

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