34, the latest restaurant from Caprice Holdings, was the focus of the reviews this weekend and it largely impressed the critics.
While dinner at the Mayfair restaurant, which has steak at its heart, certainly isn’t cheap, the fabulous grilled meats and devil-may-care luxury make it really rather worth a visit, agree the Sunday Telegraph‘s Zoe Williams and the Guardian‘s John Lanchester.
However, writing in the Independent, Tracey MacLeod is less enthused by 34, which, she says, is all about expensive comfort rather than excitement, while in the Times, Giles Coren reviews 34 and fellow London newcomer the Delaunay, insisting it’s the latter that will no doubt be a massive London institution for years to come.
What the Butley Orford Oysterage in Suffolk lacks in frills it more than makes up for with its flavoursome, no-nonsense cooking, says Jay Rayner, writing in the Observer, while according to the Independent on Sunday‘s Amol Rajan, Angela’s in Exeter is a wonderful local restaurant.
In London, the Evening Standard‘s Fay Maschler finds the combination of Jeremy Lee and the Hart brothers at Quo Vadis in Soho is the dream team of which her nights are made, while Time Out‘s Guy Dimond says the meaty menu and unfailingly friendly and smiling service make the 30-minute queue at Pitt Cue worth the wait.
Finally, Andy Lynes says in the Metro that although the cooking and service at Alyn Williams at the Westbury is faultless, he’s unsure he’d ever go back.
By Kerstin Kühn
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