London’s latest Peruvian restaurant Ceviche is a great addition to the capital’s dining scene as it allows you to try a distinctive cuisine in authentic form without having to cross the world, says David Sexton.
In his review for the London Evening Standard, Sexton says the new restaurant in Soho from Martin Morales and chef Alejandro Bello showcases Peruvian food well in tapas-sized portions. “Some of these flavours are going to start appearing in various guises in other restaurants soon,” he predicts.
Meanwhile the Sunday Times’ AA Gill doesn’t have a very good meal at Hix Belgravia, the latest venture from former Chef of the Year Catey winner Mark Hix. Gill says the restaurant at the Belgraves, a Thompson Hotel, isn’t Hix’s finest offering.
The Guardian’s food critic John Lanchester says although Matt Gillan is a serious talent, the concept of the Pass, near Horsham in Sussex, is bizarre.
The Times’ Giles Coren has a brilliant and affordable lunch at Dabbous, where he predicts chef proprietor Ollie Dabbous will be stuffed with Michelin stars like a Périgord goose, while the Independent’s John Walsh enjoys his meal at 10 Greek Street and wonders whether the inhabitants of the other, more famous Number 10 have eaten better dinners than him.
Writing in the Sunday Telegraph Zoe Williams has a lovely meal at the revamped Quo Vadis, while the Observer’s Jay Rayner says that with Jeremy Lee at the stove, Quo Vadis is almost perfect – except for its policy of putting a limit on the time diners can spend at their table.
Finally in the Metro Emma Sturgess says Marco’s – or Marco Pierre White Steakhouse – at the Cube in Birmingham suffers from an identity crisis that poor service and a confused menu only add to.For these reviews in full and more, see What’s on the Menu. Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine-dining world.
By Kerstin Kühn
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