The Daily Telegraph, 15 April
Zoe Williams is surprised by the tasty, healthy food in the Millbank branch of juice bar chain Crussh in London’s SW1
The Mango Madness smoothie was stunning – enough banana to make it smooth, but not so much it tasted of banana, probiotic yogurt to make it solid, but 98 per cent fat-free, so it didn’t taste like a pudding. The quinoa salad was really superior. Had quinoa been the sole carb, I’d have found it a bit fiddly, but the black barley added heft and pleasing chewiness, while the assorted seeds underlined a subtle nuttiness. There was feta. There was raw spinach. The lemon dressing was deep and intense. Do you want to know how many calories it had? 210! You’d practically use that just digesting it. The sushi was good; the layer of fish was about half as thick as normal, probably to keep the calorie count down, but it looked a bit stingy. My better self loves it in here.
Price: £10.87 (two courses and a smoothie)
The Observer, 15 April
Jay Rayner enjoys a gastro-porn Cantonese meat fest at New Sum Ye in Birmingham
The restaurant itself, which is unlicensed, is less sexy. It’s a utilitarian space with a counter at the front where they take the orders and a TV on one wall. What’s important here is the meat. It really is very good. A plate of three roast meats costs just £6.50 and comes on a pillow of rice with a couple of spoon-like leaves of crunchy pak choi draped across them. Too often with char sui only the outside is worth the effort, but here the flavour seemed to penetrate. The pork belly was crisp and soft and rich. The duck delivered on its carnal window promise. It was luscious, the skin crisp and salty, sweet and yielding. As a bonus there was their home-mixed chilli oil. Chilli oil is often a blunt hit of fire and toasted notes. This one was sweet, with lots of minced dry shrimp.
Price: Meal for two, including service, £25
The Independent on Sunday, 15 April
Christopher Wakling likes the understated but chic vibe to Number Thirty Eight, a new luxury bed and breakfast in Bristol
Every room I entered framed a window with a killer view; inside, it’s impossible not to look out. Which isn’t to say that the rooms aren’t lovely in themselves. In fact, the 10 bedrooms are gorgeous. No two are alike, but they’re all elegant and well equipped. The two top-floor suites each have a copper or tin roll-topped bath. The bedrooms shrink further down the house, but all feel spacious, with Tardis-like bathrooms cunningly concealed behind wood panelling which runs throughout and gives the place a New England feel. The plasma screen televisions are placed artfully enough to be as inconspicuous as the free Wi-Fi pumped through the house
Price: Doubles from £100, suites from £135, bed and breakfast
The Herald, 14 April
Ron Mackenna labels Port of Siam in Leith in Edinburgh as “one of the best Thais in the country”
Even after squeezing into one of the tiny tables, the conversation isn’t about the young couple sitting slap, bang side-on just a few feet away, or the Edinburgh folk out for dinner, as usual, wearing half the contents of their local hillwalking shop. It’s about the Thai baa baa lamb, marinated chops grilled until caramelised (sweet, tender, plentiful) and an outstandingly sweet, sour and salty Thai take on mint sauce on the side. Clever, different and risky. Who mucks about with Thai cooking and gets away with it? Port Of Siam, apparently.
By Caterer and Hotelkeeper staff
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