Best Bib and tucker

07 February 2002 by
Best Bib and tucker

Newly awarded a Bib Gourmand, the Swan in West Malling offers a rustic ambience. Janet Harmer reports.

Best quality ingredients, prepared simply and served in a rustic fashion - that's the thinking behind David Marsaud's cooking at the Swan in West Malling, Kent.

It is a philosophy that works. Not only is the pub, owned by Diccon Wright and Peter Cornwall's company, Fishbone, busy at both lunch and dinner, but it has just been recognised with a Bib Gourmand by Michelin in its 2002 Great Britain & Ireland Red Guide. "We are really chuffed," says Marsaud, who has been at the Swan since Wright and Cornwall took over and refurbished the pub in April 2000. "It's been a great boost to staff."

Lunch at the Swan, when between 40 and 80 covers may be served, can involve a quick bite or a full three-course affair. A selection of light lunch dishes includes a bowl of white bean minestrone with fontina and pepper panini (£6), roasted mushrooms on toast with Taleggio and thyme (£5) and eggs Benedict (£5.50). Customers with more time on their hands may choose to go the whole hog and opt for a starter of crab salad, rocket and crostini (£5), followed by Toulouse sausage, mustard mash and onion gravy (£9), with poached pear and lemon grass and ginger ice-cream (£4.25) to finish.

Marsaud, who heads a brigade of nine chefs, changes the menu every two or three weeks, replacing 60-70% of the dishes. However, a few popular dishes may remain on the menu for months at a time. For instance, there is always one kind of bruschetta (£5) available on both the lunch and dinner menus. Currently, it's topped with Parma ham, tomato and buffalo mozzarella; previously, it came with grilled aubergine, Taleggio cheese, aged balsamic and pesto (£5).

Other big sellers on the dinner menu - which offers a choice of seven starters, eight main courses and five desserts - include a starter of foie gras and chicken liver pâté with toasted brioche (£5.50), while new offerings among the main courses include fillet of brill, olive crust, garlic mash and provençal dressing (£13) and rump of lamb, dauphinoise potato and ratatouille (£13).

While all dishes are served with their own garnishes, extra helpings of creamed mash, goats' cheese mash, big chips, wilted spinach, roasted parsnips and artichokes and green beans and shallots (£2.50-£3.50) are also available.

Until recently, a selection of three prime British cheeses was always offered alongside desserts. Now, Marsaud has introduced a composed cheese dish. He is currently serving a blue cheese mousse, made with Oxford blue, served with a tomato confit and pickled celery. "We've experimented with a goats' cheese tatin, which worked well, but we decided that cheese ice-cream was not a good idea," he says.

The average number of covers served at dinner during the week is 70, a figure that increases to between 100 and 130 at the weekend.

The Swan, 34 Swan Street, West Malling, Kent ME19 6JU. Tel: 01732-521910

Menu shortlist

Baxter & Platts' Reckitt Benckiser contract in Slough (Caterer, 4 October), the Loft, Blair Atholl, Perthshire (Caterer, 29 November), and London's Almeida restaurant (Caterer, 20 December), have been selected to go through to the 2002 Menu of the Year Catey judging, sponsored by Quorn.

Sample menu from the Swan

White bean minestrone, lovage pesto, £4
Leek and pancetta tart, £4.75
Marinated beef, pistou and goats' cheese salad, £5
Ravioli with ricotta, mascarpone, basil and lemon oil, £9
Baked salmon, Ratte potato and smoked bacon sauce, £11.50
Herb-roasted chicken, sautéd cabbage and pancetta, £12
Raspberry crumble pie, mascarpone, £4.25
Lemon tart, organic frozen yogurt, £4.25
Chocolate brownie, vanilla ice-cream, £4.25

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