Wear it well

18 October 2002 by
Wear it well

It's autumn, and the season for new catalogues and fashions for front and back of house. There's now more choice around than ever, but traditional styles are still holding their own, especially in the kitchen.

The needs of female chefs are not that different from those of their male colleagues, according to Matt Shonfeld of Tibard. "Only around one in 500 chefs ever want darts added or jackets tapered," he says. "Most want loose as opposed to fitted clothes, so demand for a female chef range is not that great."

Chefs of both sexes consider themselves chefs first and foremost, says Martin Foyle, marketing director for Alexandra. "But style plays an important part in the selection of chef's garments. As more job functions, such as on carveries and delicatessen counters, wear the traditional apparel of the chef, chefs are increasingly on view to the public and appearance is key," he says. "Co-ordinated trousers and jackets, as well as accessories such as aprons, bandannas and skull caps enhance the look."

J‚rome Poussin, managing director of Bragard, says he will tailor a top-of-the range jacket to fit. For Angela Hartnett and her pastry chef at the Connaught, he restyled their jackets, shortening the base-line and sleeves and tightening the waist for a more fitted look. "We did it specially for them because these jackets will last a good couple of years," he says.

Buy the best you can afford is still the most common advice, and Bragard jackets, for example, range from around £11 to £70. The extra is often in the detail such as air vents, pen-holders and hand-stitched logos, but the main thing to look for is a good fabric.

"You perspire both in a jacket and trousers, so if you want a 100% cotton jacket, don't then use polyester trousers which can irritate the skin," advises Poussin. Bragard now offers a jacket with a terry-cotton collar which is said to absorb perspiration and is softer around the neck.

Premium clothes are usually guaranteed by the manufacturer however you wash them, but all suppliers say that the right aftercare plays a big part in extending the life of commercial garments - cheap chemicals and home laundering, for example, will reduce the life of even the best fabrics. Look for garments that can withstand high-temperature washes and still be comfortable.

Some bigger establishments offer employees on-premises laundry facilities, but for those that don't, leasing clothes is another option. Tibard splits its business 50/50 between direct sales and garment rental, which includes a laundry service.

"We lease more than we sell and offer a two-year contract with weekly laundry services," says Shonfeld. "The garments are made to last a minimum of 24 months. If they don't, we replace them free of charge. And if a chef is replaced by someone who is a different size, we do a free exchange for the new employee."

New on the catwalk Whites remain firm favourites with a lot of chefs, both for traditional and financial reasons (a white jacket and blue gingham trousers is a best-selling outfit and one of the cheapest in Tibard's range), while for front of house, the black suit continues to stand the test of time, says Foyle. If you want something different, though, there's plenty to choose from this season.

  • Bragard's new Cooking Star range has a blue denim jacket with white shoulder pads and plenty of coloured trousers to mix and match.

  • Black and denim are also proving very popular from Tibard, as well as its Utensils range and a machine-washable shoe.

  • Alexandra's 2002 catalogue has new black and navy jackets, trousers and skirts in 100% polyester boasting improved drape, feel and appearance for front of house. New for women are two single-breasted jackets, long line and collarless or short and fitted. A new polyester waistcoat range comes in seven colours, including red berry, camel and claret, in both men's and women's fittings.

  • Denny's new catalogue has expanded its offering to include more T-shirts, polos and knitwear, a lightweight washable shoe range and a new food service range.

  • Simon Jersey has a new premium businesswear collection called Tailored to Business, using a wool, polyester and Lycra mix. Crease-resistant, most garments are machine-washable. The range comes in four colours - navy, black, navy with electric blue pinstripes, and black with garnet pinstripes. Options for women include a fully lined skirt, shirt and bootleg trousers.

  • The new Wallers catalogue includes an extended range of corporate wear now offered in short, regular and long fittings for ladies.

You are what you wear

Hotels are traditionally one of the largest purchasers of uniform. With the recent downturn in the industry, many hotels had retreated from making investments in corporate clothing, but signs are that this is now changing, according to Jacqueline de Baer, founder of de Baer. "Uniforms should be designed to promote brand and to improve customer service," she says. "The trick in the hotel industry is get the right balance between professionalism and approachability."

Some larger chains have introduced brand standards across all their hotels in the three- and four-star market, realising that staff uniforms need to go hand in hand with refurbishment, adds de Baer.

"Dowdy old uniforms do not match stylish decor. Corporate clothing needs to suggest quality and efficiency while also appearing fashionable and friendly. Clothes also affect how staff behave," she says. "Staff who enjoy wearing their uniform feel more positive about their workplace. And as we know, happy staff means satisfied customers."

Suppliers

Alexandra 01454 416600
Bragard 020 7745 7268
De Baer 020 7840 3013
Denny's 01372 377904
Simon Jersey 01282 775421
Tibard 0161-342 1000
Wallers 020 7437 1665

Dressing-up time

Despite recent trends in dressing down for work, the suit is making a comeback, according to Simon Jersey. As well as the strain on the purse, the rejection of dress-down has much to do with the enduring image of a suit as a symbol of success.

For many, the suit helps them be taken seriously. It reinforces a businesslike approach and customers react warmly to the smarter appearance.

In a Simon Jersey survey conducted across businesses in Germany and the UK in 2000, 91% of customers felt that a uniformed employee would have more respect for them and their needs.

The same survey showed that customers felt that a business with uniformed staff was more successful (84%), as well as being more professional (81%).

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