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Review of the reviews

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Written by:

TimeOut – 28 October

GUY DIMOND welcomes the warm autumnal flavours on the opening menu of Conran’s latest eaterie, PLATEAU, London
Main courses were superlative. If venison is your thing, check out the delightfully pink fillet steak accompanied with lovely tender endive. The combination of distinctly bitter endive betrayed a barest hint of subtle sweetness, offset with deliciously squidgy cranberry and onion compote. Our blackberry and plum Charlotte, encased in crisp bread, was packed with warm fruit and shared the plate with a sexy helping of the deepest maroon-hued plum sorbet.
(Meal for two, including wine and service, about £120)

The Independent – 26 October

TERRY DURACK embraces the moodily lit gastropub, the EBURY, London
If you want to experience the full autumnal glory of [Derek] Creagh’s cooking, wend your way up the stairs to the Dining Room, an altogether more sombre space, where the crowd is a little older and quieter, the jeans not so skinny and the food and the prices more serious (£29.50 for three courses). Butternut soup with sage gnocchi, tart of snails Bourguignon, onion tart with Kirkman’s Lancashire cheese and roast cod with braised pig’s cheek, girolles and salsify are like overcoats and galoshes in culinary form.
(Three-course dinner, excluding wine and service, £29.50)

The Sunday Times – 26 October

AA GILL is rather more disappointed with the EBURY, London
Maurice fell upon the squash soup and volubly declared it the most opulent heaven. But then, he is a pushover for soup. Now, I haven’t been sick for a long, long time, but my kalamata oliver risotto with baby squid and gremolata d‚j…-vued me straight back by DHL. It cleverly and precisely contrived the three Ts – taste, texture and temperature – of happy, youthful vomit. Just the right proportion of viscous bitter acidity.
(Three-course dinner, excluding wine and service, £29.50)

The Observer – 26 October

JAY RAYNER laments the lack of simplicity at PETRUS, the Berkeley hotel, London
Wareing is a gifted and unashamedly bourgeois chef who is not scared of big flavours. Here, though, simplicity has gone out of the over-gilded widow. It’s not just bells and whistles: it’s the whole damn percussion section of the London Symphony Orchestra. And not all the instruments are playing the same tune. Not everything we ate was bad. Pat was brought a cup of hot, creamy white onion soup. Wareing does these truffled soups spectacularly well, as this one proved. She also ordered the best main dish, braised hare served with creamed Savoy cabbage, glazed red onions and a rich Madeira wine sauce. It read well and it ate well.
(Dinner for two, including wine and service, £150)

The Sunday Telegraph – 26 October

MATTHEW NORMAN at the Inn on the Green, Cookham Dean, Berkshire
When the charming manager ruefully shook his head at my ordering an Australian Shiraz (one of the many £18 bin ends in an interesting list), and when a waiter jollied the people next to us towards their table with a jaunty, “OK, you guys…” the scent of disaster began to mingle with the wood smoke. Could this, I wondered, be a calamity on the lines of its owner-chef Garry Hollihead’s last venture – a repulsive burger place attached to the briefly revived Marquee Club in London? The answer, thankfully, was no. From this low point, it was vertical liftoff from the moment the manager brought us glasses of a really delicious 1995 Pomerol (£30 per bottle), and a Coke for the small boy who had tagged along.
(Three-course Sunday lunch for one, not including wine, £23.50)


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