ONE of the UK's several enthusiastic specialist shippers of Spanish wine is C&D Wines (081-650 9095). Its new wine list issued this month is in itself a guide to the Denominations of Origin (D0) wine regions of Spain. It provides both a map showing where the DO regions are and an introduction to the wines listed from the different regions which is succinct and informative.

Spanish wines, particularly from regions such as Navarra, Rueda and Ribera del Duero, are continuing to improve their quality and reliability, and are excellent value.

C&D ships one of Spain's less common but most celebrated white wines - Albarino, from the grape of the same name. It is made in the DO region of Rias Baixas in Galicia. The producer is Martin Codax and the wine listed is 1992. The introduction to this section of the list notes that Albarino is a low-yielding grape especially in the cool climate of Galicia. The grape is high in acidity with thick skin and lots of pips. Maybe that has something to do with the remarkable concentration and fragrance of the wine.

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