Put your own stamp on mezcal, says Matthias Ingelmann

04 October 2022

There are myriad opportunities for a mezcalero to put their stamp on a mezcal, making it a unique spirit, says Matthias Ingelmann, head bartender at Kol Mezcaleria and Kol restaurant, London

The beauty of agave spirits lies in their inconsistencies, but what does that really mean? Why are they so consistently inconsistent? Are spirits not supposed to taste the same every time?

Agave spirits are a bit like grapes and wine: each has a different flavour profile, requires a different terroir, and a different production process. Every mezcalero (maker of mezcal) has a different style, learned different techniques from their ancestors and uses different tools. Agaves need a long time to grow, from around seven years for the Maguey Espadin to 25 years for the Maguey Tepeztate.

This means the plant experiences a lot over its lifespan: the surrounding plants, weather and animals all influence the flavour profile of the agave.

Will the mezcalero cut the quiote (the stem that carries the flower) down when harvesting, and how much of the pencas (leaves) will be taken off? Will the agaves be halved or quartered before cooking? How will the cooking pit be structured? What wood will be used for the fire and for how long will it be cooked for? After the cooking will the agave be mashed straight away or be left for a while? Will a tahona (a big stone wheel) be used or a wooden mallet?

All this happens before we even see a drop of alcohol and before probably the biggest contributor to the beauty of inconsistency comes into play: the natural fermentation using the yeasts around the palenque (distillery). Will the mezcalero use a wooden pine vat, one made of concrete or the raw hide from last year? Will it be distilled in copper or clay, or a tree trunk copper construct? There may be one, two or three distillations, or it may be mezcal pechuga (where a raw chicken or turkey breast is hung over the still, cooking in the vapors, supposedly adding to the spirit's final flavour).

Mezcal production has a lot of question marks, but it creates a truly unique product. And that's the beauty of it: every vintage is different, every agave has its own style, and it is up to the mezcalero how that is expressed. Inconsistency is beautiful and exciting. Savour and honour every sip you get.