The chef and restaurateur celebrates his new opening and tries to forget Yorkshire pudding nightmares
Tell us a bit about yourself
I am a passionate chef-turned-restaurateur, with decades of experience that has taken me from learning the ropes in professional kitchens to investing in and operating a collection of restaurants across India, from the Kerala backwaters to the Himalayas, as well as food-led cities such as Goa, Mumbai and Bangalore.
Bulbul, our new restaurant that has just opened in the City of London, is our new micro-regional Indian food brand, created in India for international markets. It brings together flavourful Indian food inspired by forgotten culinary journeys and our wide-ranging exposure to distinctive food cultures, all served in a vibrant setting with a strong drinks programme.
What’s your favourite thing about where you work?
The excitement of building something, seeing it come to life, navigating the challenges of day-to-day operations and making it successful year after year is what keeps my passion alive.
What was your first job in catering?
My first job in catering was with P&O Cruises UK as a trainee chef, which opened my eyes to a global understanding of quality food.
What do you do to relax?
My schedule is all over the place, so I don’t really have a routine for relaxing. When I do switch off, I usually watch sport or a documentary.
Which is your favourite restaurant?
My favourite restaurants are the ones I work on, because they are my workplace and a kind of Mecca for me. I also travel extensively around the world for food experiences, so my answer often depends on the country I have visited most recently, which changes from month to month.
What’s your favourite hotel?
Some of my favourite hotels are from the Oberoi Group’s Vilas portfolio. I also love a good beach resort.
What is your favourite drink?
I enjoy a good glass of wine or a cocktail, especially something with bright citrus or acidity.
What is your favourite food/cuisine?
I love French, Chinese and Thai food, as well as steaks and grilled seafood. Goan food is my comfort food.
Which ingredient do you hate the most?
I am not a fan of turkey.
Are there any foods/ingredients that you refuse to cook with? If so, why?
I have never refused to cook with any ingredient, as I create my own menus and recipes based on the dishes that best suit our business and our audience.
What’s the best piece of advice you’ve received?
My greatest advice is never to chase fame. Let it come to you. Always stay focused, stay grounded and never be afraid to keep learning.
Which person gave you the greatest inspiration?
Many people have nurtured me throughout my journey. In the early stages of my culinary career, Mike Monahan, my corporate chef at P&O Cruises, was one of the first people to recognise my potential.
If you had not gone into catering, where do you think you would be now?
I think I would loved to have become a pilot.
Describe your ultimate nightmare?
In my early years, my kitchen nightmares involved getting large batches of Yorkshire puddings wrong just before service. It happened more than a dozen times, and it really did give me sleepless nights.
What irritates you most about the industry?
One brutal truth, and something that irritates me, is that in the Indian hospitality industry I see some chefs and restaurateurs focusing more on flattering journalists or influencers than on talent, skill and craft. Chasing recognition over substance is something that hurts me. Today, anyone with a bit of money seems to want to open a restaurant, which means the industry is not always treated with the respect, seriousness and passion it deserves.
Who would play “you” in a film about your life?
I think my business partner, Twinkle Keswani, knows my professional moves better than most, having followed them closely for many years.
What is your favourite prepared product?
I like a good pâté and well-prepared smoked meats.
Who would be in your “fantasy” brigade?
Our dream team is the one at Bulbul. It includes a few professional friends, such as chef Ashfaq and chef Yash. Both are passionately driven and share our same vision.