New concept, same heart: How the Trof’s owners are reigniting a Manchester institution

Out of this world

Trof has been a Manchester haunt for more than 20 years and was previously operated by Mission Mars, the team behind Albert’s Schloss and Rudy’s Pizza.

Nellany had worked at Trof as deputy general manager and later general manager while it was operated by Mission Mars and discussed his ambitions to operate his own venue with them. When Mission Mars looked to offload the site following the Covid-19 pandemic, he had first refusal. He took the reins in 2021, bringing chef Pickles, who he had met while working for Mission Mars, on board as his partner in 2023.

For the past five years the pub has continued to operate much as it had, with Nellany explaining: “It wasn’t broken, so we didn’t feel the need to fix it”. Under its previous incarnation, Trof was known for its all-day offering, which stretched from indulgent breakfasts to buzzing late-night events. Its clientele spanned everyone from the city’s many students to regulars who had visited for years, and the pair say there are few people in Manchester without a Trof story.

Due to the strength of affection felt for the venue, the pair have agonised over every decision, not least adding the prefix ‘The’ to its name, but, ultimately, they felt the change was important in communicating the new pub offering.

The site itself, formerly a jewellery store, has a beautiful red brick and stone façade. The pair explain that it already had the feel of a pub, being set over three floors with an additional cellar, and a light refurbishment has made the most of the exposed brickwork on the ground floor, with the addition of round bar tables and stalls. Here punters will enjoy a selection of local beers, some of which have been developed specially for the venue in partnership with local breweries, and simple bar snacks such as scotch eggs and pork pies. The first floor is now a dedicated 40-cover dining room with a more refined aesthetic, elevated food offering and an extensive wine list accompanied by a selection of classic cocktails.

The final stage of the refurbishment will see the second floor become a private dining room towards the end of the year, but in the meantime it will serve as an event space. 

Pickles says: “We want the Trof to be a cornerstone of the community and a social hub. It’s already been that, but now we want to scream it even more. A really big part of what we’re doing is ensuring we can welcome everyone. So, you can come and have a beer, come for a meal with your wife, bring your dog down – we want everyone to feel welcome.”

Nellany adds: “Trof always gets spoken about as a Northern Quarter institution and we want that to continue.”

Holy trinity

The new concept will allow the pair to bring on board the elevated levels of service they have honed at the Trof’s sister venue, Stow, which Pickles and Nellany opened in 2024, specialising in live-fire cooking and cocktails.

The dining room menu at the Trof will celebrate traditional British flavour combinations and local produce through regularly changing specials, while also offering elevated pub classics, such as a burger and pies. Opening menus will include salmon and asparagus, a cured sea bream starter with burnt tomatoes and pork served with bacon and cabbage.

Pickles says: “We felt it was really important in a pub to have that classic set up of starter, main course, dessert. There will be a little bit more adventure coming through, but always classic British flavour profiles and super-seasonal.”

The decision to develop two distinct offerings provides the pair with the opportunity to price appropriately for current operating conditions, without excluding or infuriating their existing clientele. Nellany says: “Costs are rising so quickly, and you can’t just pass those on. We didn’t want to put a blanket increase on. We wanted to elevate what we were doing and put some meaning behind it.”

Pickles adds: “We wanted to make positive change while we were in a good position. We’re responsible for jobs and it was important to make the right decision at the right time. If you want to come to the Trof for a beer and a scotch egg, a pint of house lager will be £3.50 and we love that. Or you can spend a few hundred on a great meal with some beautiful wine that you’ll remember forever. It’s up to you – we’ll be welcoming everyone.”

The Trof will open its doors on 1 May, having closed at the end of service on Sunday 26 April. The brief closure has been intentional and will be accompanied by minimal fanfare on reopening, with the pair hoping guests will simply wander in and be excited to see the changes.

Nellany says: “We wanted to take the understated approach. We’ve made a lot of the regulars aware, and those that have always supported us have been invited in for meals and drinks on us. We want to recognise that the Trof means a lot to a lot of people.”

The pair also hope the guest following they’ve built up at Stow, many of who they believe are the people who frequented the Trof 15 years ago, will visit to see the changes to its sister site. But, while they will find changes the pair are adamant that the essentials will remain, with great drinks, delicious food and a warm welcome for all on offer.

After all, as they say: “What’s important to the guest is the most important thing.”