Geetie's Cookbook – book review

17 June 2010 by
Geetie's Cookbook – book review

Geetie's Cookbook - recipes from the kitchen of the Duke of Cambridge organic pub
By Geetie Singh and Sara Berg
Grub Street, £18.99
ISBN 978-1-906502-49-2

Geetie Singh's policy of using only seasonal produce on the twice-daily changing menu at her organic pub, the Duke of Cambridge in Islington, north London, shines through in this, her first cookbook.

Written in conjunction with the pub's head chef, Sara Berg, the book includes about 100 recipes, divided between seasonal sections. There is also a useful selection of recipes for rustic breads and basic accompaniments such as onion marmalade and preserved lemons.

Every recipe published here has been served at one time or another in the Duke, which Singh opened to great acclaim in 1998 as the world's first organic pub. They are generally hearty, rustic and British in inspiration, with an occasional Mediterranean flourish.

Most are straightforward; the intention is to show off the fresh high-quality local ingredients that Singh urges readers to take the time to search for. At the Duke of Cambridge, about 80% of the organic ingredients are sourced from the Home Counties.

Recipes from the summer section, which could currently grace the menu of any pub serious about its food as well as many an informal restaurant, include marinated baked ricotta, mint and grilled courgette with rocket and walnut pesto; roast monkfish with caponata and spinach; courgette, pea, mint and strong Cheddar quiche; and Natascha's lemon and raspberry tart.

From the spring section, coley and caper fishcakes with leeks and sorrel sauce particularly appeals; while autumn offers up braised rabbit with pearl barley and buttered greens; and, for winter, apple, walnut and cinnamon sponge cake with crème anglaise is the ideal comfort pudding.

Singh was something of a trailblazer when she created the Duke and, as a result, was at the forefront of setting the organic standards that the Soil Association adopted for all catering outlets.

Now, with this book, pub and restaurant chefs all over the country will have an insight into the kind of dishes that have helped the Duke win a plethora of awards, including one for the Best Organic Restaurant from the Soil Association." target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">View the recipe for globe artichoke stuffed with peas, mushrooms and ewe's cheese with garlic-roasted marrow taken from the book >>

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