Upwardly mobile 20 September 2019 The founders of coffee and brunch chain Caravan are on the move, taking their business model to new Chelsea restaurant Vardo
In this week's issue... Upwardly mobile The founders of coffee and brunch chain Caravan are on the move, taking their business model to new Chelsea restaurant Vardo
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Lièvre à la royale

10 March 2004 by
Lièvre à la royale

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What goes around, comes around. Once, lièvre à la royale, a kind of civet or salmis of hare, was among the glories of haute cuisine. It went into a kind of genteel retirement during the nouvelle cuisine era, when cooking any piece of flesh for more than two hours seemed like madness. Now, with the revival of long, slow cooking, it's returning to favour, but in an altered form that gives value to the taste of the meat as well as the sauce that used to be the focus of the dish - even Paul Bocuse admits that braised hare can be dry.

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