What goes around, comes around. Once, lièvre à la royale, a kind of civet or salmis of hare, was among the glories of haute cuisine. It went into a kind of genteel retirement during the nouvelle cuisine era, when cooking any piece of flesh for more than two hours seemed like madness. Now, with the revival of long, slow cooking, it's returning to favour, but in an altered form that gives value to the taste of the meat as well as the sauce that used to be the focus of the dish - even Paul Bocuse admits that braised hare can be dry.
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