Masterclass: Viennese apple strudel

18 March 2010
Masterclass: Viennese apple strudel

Originating in Austria and Hungary, strudel is a versatile pastry that can be made with many fillings. Patissier Bachmanns explains how to create a classic apple strudel.

Strudel came to prominence in the 18th century throughout Austria and Hungary. It is a sweet, layered pastry with a filling, often served with cream. The word "strudel" is a derivative of the German word "streden", which means to boil or bubble. This is an apt description, as the pastry is cooked at high temperature so the surface blisters and appears wrinkly.

The dough has to be given as much elasticity as possible so it can be stretched until it is paper-thin and almost translucent. This means that when it is rolled up into a multi-layered sausage the outside layer is still thin and therefore very delicate.

The best-known kind of strudel is made with an apple mix, which is the recipe we are showcasing. However, the pastry is very versatile and can be combined with many fillings. For example, a version made with sweet, soft quark cheese is popular in Germany. Other strudel types include sour cherry, sweet cherry and poppy seed. There is also a wide variety of savoury strudels incorporating spinach, pumpkin and even sauerkraut.

Traditional Austrian strudel pastry is slightly different from strudels served in other parts of the world, which are often made from filo or puff pastry. There is a school of thought that the strudel pastry is actually adapted from the Turkish dessert baklava. Using filo pastry makes for a more crisp dessert and some people prefer this texture, especially as it is easier to make.

When strudel is made correctly it has a lovely combination of crispness and softness that melts in the mouth. Because it is cooked very quickly at high temperature it can be cooked to order. It is at its best when served piping hot.

The following is a recipe by patissier Ernst Bachmann, which has been refined by his team at Bachmanns Patisserie in Thames Ditton.

ERNST BACHMANN

After training in his native Switzerland, Ernst Bachmann established himself as one of the leading pastry chefs and chocolatiers in the UK with stints at the Dorchester, the Swiss Centre and the Intercontinental with Peter Kromberg.

During his career he has trained and inspired many top pastry chefs including Clare Clark. He opened the eponymous Bachmanns in Thames Ditton in 1989 and the company has won 28 national awards, including Best Patisserie in the UK three times, and best chocolatier.

Bachmann is a member of the Academy of Culinary Arts, whose annual Awards of Excellence he judges, and is also on the judging panel of the Master of Culinary Arts competition.

Chris Bachmann took over the business in 2008 and Bachmanns kitchens are now run by head pastry chef Gregory Crouch-Cadoni. His talented brigade includes this year's Acorn Scholarship winner and Craft Guild Young Chef of the year, Will Torrent.

Ernst was honoured with the lifetime achievement award by the Association of Pastry Chefs at last year's annual dinner.


INGREDIENTS

(Serves 12)

For the apple mix
2kg Granny Smith or Russet apples
300g caster sugar
400g Lexia raisins
15g cinnamon
10g mixed spice
Juice of 2 lemons
Zest of 2 lemons and 1 orange
Black tea
Rum

For the pastry 1.5kg flour
750ml warm water
120ml oil
30g salt

METHOD

To make the apple mix
Cover the raisins in a mixture of black tea and rum and leave to soak overnight. It is preferable to use larger raisins such as Lexia.

Cube and slice the apple. Granny Smith or Russet apples are very good for their texture and ability to hold their shape; avoid Bramleys as they will turn to mush when cooking.

Add the caster sugar or an unrefined or brown sugar, cinnamon, mixed spice, lemon juice, orange and lemon zest. Mix gently. Do not over-sugar as the mix may become too wet. If it does, you can counterbalance this by adding roasted breadcrumbs or ground almonds.

Drain the raisins and add to the mix.

To make the pastry
Contrary to some opinions, a particularly strong flour is not necessary. An all-purpose flour gives the best results. The following recipe is a guide only, as the qualities of the flour used can vary tremendously.

Combine the sieved flour, salt and oil. Place in a mixer, set the dough hook to a slow turn and add 750ml of water in small quantities until the dough forms a single piece and doesn't tear as the dough hook spins.

Continue to work the dough until it is smooth, elastic and no longer tacky. You need to leave it in the fridge overnight, where it will soften up, so it is best to make it slightly firm.

Divide the dough into appropriate portions. Seal with vegetable oil to avoid drying out and leave in the fridge overnight (1).

To assemble the strudel
Dust the dough liberally with flour and roll out until it is very thin (approximately 1.5mm) (2).

Place a cloth or sheet on to a table. Take the thin layer of dough and stretch it further so it completely covers the work surface. Use the back of your hands to avoid tearing the dough. It is easier if two people work on it (3).

When the dough is almost see-through, gently brush butter over the whole surface. This ensures that the adjacent layers do not stick together. Lay out a 0.5cm thick layer of breadcrumbs roasted in butter about 5cm from one edge of the strudel (4). This is enough to absorb the juices of the apples as they cook. At Bachmanns, we make ours about 7cm wide. You can adjust the width according to your requirements.

(5).

Carefully lift the dough over the apple and encase it, then roll it tightly into a giant sausage. This ensures that the strudel maintains its shape in the baking process. There should be two or three layers of dough around the apple mix (6).

Tear off and separate each section if necessary. Tuck the ends in so the apple is completely sealed (7).

Place on trays lined with silicon paper and brush the tops generously with butter. Ensure that the breadcrumbs are on the base of the strudel. Sprinkle liberally with icing sugar. It is now ready to bake (8).

Bake at 250°C for 10-12 minutes. While it is baking, re-butter and re-dust it with icing sugar two or three times. This ensures the perfect caramelised top. The strudel can be presented as a whole piece or portioned as appropriate - we cut each 27in strip into 12 portions (9).

The beauty of the strudel is that it can be served hot or cold, with a variety of accompaniments. Flavoured sauce Anglaise, Chantilly cream, lemon sorbet, vanilla, cinnamon or caramel ice-creams, even frozen parfaits all work well.

For variation try using firm tinned cherries, or even experiment with a savoury vegetable strudel. If you want to make a slightly crispier version, you can use a filo pastry.

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