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What's on the menu: forgettable food at Pieds Nus, says AA Gill

09 February 2014 by
What's on the menu: forgettable food at Pieds Nus, says AA Gill

AA Gill encounters forgettable food and a ‘deflated feeling' at David Moore's Pieds Nus as the restaurant nears the end of its pop-up run.

"This is the trouble with pop-ups: they pop," he writes in the http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/hotel/128045/The-Greyhound-on-the-Test-hotel-Hampshire-review.html" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Sunday Times](http://www.thesundaytimes.co.uk/sto/Magazine/article1371260.ece). "This is food that started off with an orthodoxy, but without an appetite. Restaurants should be lifetime businesses that you hand down to your kids, not limited-run theatrics."

Marina O'Loughlin visits the Lockhart in London's Seymour Place for the [Guardian](http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2014/feb/07/the-lockhart-london-restaurant-review), and finds thrilling cooking from US-born head chef Brad McDonald.

"The whole thing is outrageously lovely, the stuff of sticky dreams and abandoned diets," she says of the cornbread and sweetened butter, adding that the care taken over a side dish is enough to make her "all a-quiver".

Jay Rayner is less-impressed with his visit to Lanes of London for the [Observer](http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2014/feb/09/lanes-of-london-restaurant-review-jay-rayner), which leads him to ask whether the Marriott Hotel taken a wrong turning? Its senseless street food concept leads diners up a blind alley, he concludes.

Dirty Bones on London's Kensington Church Street may sound edgy but it is little more than a posh cocktail bar that dabbles in dude food, says Joe Warwick in the [Metro](http://metro.co.uk/2014/02/06/dirty-bones-in-london-too-posh-and-not-dirty-enough-4292275/).

The [Evening Standard's](http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-compagnie-des-vins-surnaturels-9108500.html) Fay Maschler finds herself gushing to strangers about Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels and welcomes the wine bar renaissance.

Matthew Norman is gushing in his praise of Adam's in Birmingham, where he finds Adam Stokes' cooking intricate, inventive and beautifully balanced - in the [Telegraph](http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/restaurants/10607012/Adams-Birmingham-restaurant-review.html).

Giles Coren enjoys the seafood at Club Fish, Liverpool, but is rather fed up with the double-edged backlash that's come from his efforts to review restaurants from around the country for the [Times](http://www.thetimes.co.uk/tto/magazine/article3994245.ece).

The potential for people watching might be great, but the food on offer at Arkady Novikov's Rextail is underwhelming according to Zoe Williams in the [Telegraph](http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/10604323/Rextail-London-W1-restaurant-review.html).

The Brackenbury on London's Brackenbury Road is much a stew about nothing, says the [Metro's ](http://metro.co.uk/2014/02/06/the-brackenbury-restaurant-in-london-much-a-stew-about-nothing-4292262/)Andy Lynes.

John Walsh visits the Crab & Lobster in Sidlesham, West Sussex, for the [Independent](http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/food-and-drink/reviews/crab--lobster-restaurant-review-a-masterclass-in-comfort-food-9112306.html), and describes it as a masterclass in comfort food.

[Time Out's](http://www.timeout.com/london/restaurants/bunnychow) Roopa Gulati visits Bunnychow in Shoreditch where she finds the London namesake has given the African Asian fast food a makeover.

HOTELS

Tom Chesshyre says Grays in Bath could be a template for how modern B&Bs ought to be run, in the [Times](http://www.thetimes.co.uk/tto/travel/article3994415.ece).

The [Guardian's](http://www.theguardian.com/travel/2014/feb/07/the-florentine-sheffield-hotel-review) Tony Naylor says that despite the hodgepodge design, he likes the Florentine, a boutique pub with rooms from the Revere Pub Company, a subsidiary of Marston's.

Fiona Duncan praises The Greyhound on the Test in Stockbridge, Hampshire, for its tasteful refurbishment and excellent value for money - in the [Telegraph.

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