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What's on the menu – full five stars for Karam Sethi's Gymkhana from Fay Maschler

06 October 2013 by
What's on the menu – full five stars for Karam Sethi's Gymkhana from Fay Maschler

Karam Sethi's colonial India-inspired Gymkhana receives rave reviews from the critics this week, with Fay Maschler scoring it a full five stars.

Writing in the http://blogs.catererandhotelkeeper.co.uk/blogs/guide-girl/2013/10/what-the-critics-say---round-up-of-latest-restaurant-and-hotel-reviews-6.html" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Evening Standard](http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/gymkhana--restaurant-review-8853062.html), she says that Indian food with a nod to the days of the Raj is not novel in itself, but at Gymkhana the notion has come together magnificently.

Camilla Long for the [Sunday Times](http://www.thesundaytimes.co.uk/sto/Magazine/article1321828.ece) agrees, describing the relaxed Mayfair take on street food as "yummy" but points out that it is also expensive.

Guy Dimond drops in on Jason Atherton's Berners Tavern at the new London Edition hotel for [Time Out](http://www.timeout.com/london/restaurants/berners-tavern), where he has an "utterly glamorous" experience.

Gordon Ramsay's Union Street Cafe also receives its fair share of reviews this week. John Walsh went for the [Independent](http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/food-and-drink/reviews/restaurant-review-gordon-ramsays-union-street-caf-is-a-terrific-italian-but-whats-the-beckham-connection-8854750.html) and finds that he isn't sure Ramsay has pulled off the Brooklyn-comes-to-London effect he wanted, but that he's established a terrific new Italian in drab London SE1.

Andy Lynes also pays a visit, for the [Metro](http://metro.co.uk/2013/10/03/review-ramsays-union-street-cafe-didnt-need-beckham-hype-4131623/), and he's convinced that Union Street Cafe didn't need any of the David Beckham hype that preceded its opening.

Giles Coren eats out twice for the [Times](http://www.thetimes.co.uk/tto/magazine/article3883822.ece) and both times he's underwhelmed. Despite being the subject of "unheard of enthusiasm", Casse-Croûte in London SE1 fails to excite Coren who describes his experience as "fine". A visit to Joel Kissin's Boulestin prompts a similar response.

Zoe Williams mingles with the "scenesters" at 100 Hoxton, which - like the clientele and all that concrete - couldn't be more fashionable. But while the [Telegraph's](http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/restaurants/10338664/100-Hoxton-London-N1-restaurant-review.html) restaurant critic had fun, she feels "a bit more judicious tasting" in the kitchen would help.

The [Guardian's](http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2013/oct/05/smokehouse-london-restaurant-review) Marina O'Loughlin is impressed by how accommodating Neil Rankin's meat-led Smokehouse in London N1 is for her ‘poor vegetarian pal'.

Its habit of repeatedly playing Sting aside, Chameleon House in Harleston, Norfolk, is a wonderful and unpretentious restaurant, says Matthew Norman in the [Telegraph](http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/restaurants/10337263/Chameleon-House-Norfolk-restaurant-review.html).

Jay Rayner for the [Observer](http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2013/oct/06/mayfields-hackney-restaurant-jay-rayner) finds in Mayfields, London E8, a restaurant that is going places but for now its intelligent cooking remains a strictly local affair.

HOTELS

Writing in the [Guardian](http://www.theguardian.com/travel/2013/oct/02/crab-manor-thirsk-yorkshire-bandb-review) Tony Naylor describes Crab Manor in Thirsk, North Yorkshire, as "a pampered bubble that doesn't take itself too seriously" where the 17 bedrooms are themed in homage to the Ritz, Raffles and the luxury hotels around the world.

The [Sunday Telegraph's](http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/hotel/118368/Mr-Underhills-hotel-Ludlow-Shropshire-review.html) Fiona Duncan enjoys good value, Michelin-star food at Mr Underhill's in Ludlow, Shropshire, but finds the bedrooms - doubles start at £220 a night - to be over-priced.

The [Times'](http://www.thetimes.co.uk/tto/travel/wheretostay/article3884843.ece) Tom Chesshyre finds the Salcombe Harbour Hotel in Devon to be lively and full of joie de vivre, with friendly staff.

\* [Visit Guide Girl for a round up of UK restaurant and hotel reviews from the last seven days

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