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What's on the menu – Jason Atherton's Berners Tavern comes in for more critical acclaim

13 October 2013 by
What's on the menu – Jason Atherton's Berners Tavern comes in for more critical acclaim

Jason Atherton's Berners Tavern at Ian Shrager's London Edition hotel comes in for more high praise from the restaurant critics this week.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/hotel/118915/Cafe-Royal-hotel-Piccadilly-London-review.html" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Metro's](http://metro.co.uk/2013/10/10/jason-athertons-berners-tavern-set-to-be-defining-restaurant-of-the-decade-4140116/) Andy Lynes awards five stars for only the second time in his career, and declares Berners Tavern set to be the defining restaurant of the decade.

Tracey Macleod pays a visit too, for the [Independent](http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/food-and-drink/reviews/restaurant-review-berners-tavern-is-grownup-and-gorgeous-but-wont-suit-everyone-8868605.html). She says that as grown-up and gorgeous as the Berners Tavern is, this Schrager-bomb of a restaurant won't suit everyone, but for a statement of the "swaggering confidence" of London's world-class dining scene it is "v v good" indeed.

The new Ace Hotel's restaurant, Hoi Polloi, has such a calm, purposeful atmosphere - no shrieking or loud music - that the [Evening Standard's](http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-hoi-polloi-8868258.html) Fay Maschler is sorely tempted to stay the night.

The [Guardian's](http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2013/oct/12/wild-rabbit-kingham-restaurant-review) Marina O'Loughlin's visits the Wild Rabbit in Kingham, Oxfordshire, and finds it to be "just so bloody perfect: as fake as a stage set and mannered as a dowager, but so, so pleasurable".

Writing for the [Sunday Times](http://www.thesundaytimes.co.uk/sto/Magazine/article1324710.ece), Camilla Long describes Gordon Ramsay's Union Street Cafe, London SE1, as a place of no care and maximum profit, created for and by the internet and people on Facebook.

If you like being unobtrusively and extremely well-served, former Masterchef: The Professionals runner-up Marianne Lumb's eponymous micro-venue in Notting Hill is a complete treat, says David Sexton in the [Evening Standard](http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/marianne--restaurant-review-8823673.html).

Giles Coren visits Hutong, halfway up the Shard in London SE1, with literary journalist Sam Leith - which explains the references - for the [Times](http://www.thetimes.co.uk/tto/magazine/article3889021.ece). There they discover a "patchy upscale Sichuan, [a] couple of great dishes but too many mediocre ones, nice service [and] ridiculous pricing".

The food that comes out of Rick Stein's kitchen at his flagship Seafood Restaurant in Padstow is for the most part hard to fault, says Amol Rajan in the Independent.

Karam Sethi's Gymkhana in London's Mayfair might be expensive, but its "strident, full-on food" is an education, says Jay Rayner in the [Observer](http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2013/oct/13/gymkhana-indian-restaurant-jay-rayner).

Zoe Williams for the [Telegraph](http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/restaurants/10353840/The-Five-Fields-London-SW3-restaurant-review.html) finds culinary wizardry and customers who conform to the local stereotype at the Five Fields in Chelsea

HOTELS

Linden House, Essex, is a budget boutique hotel just a 12-minute drive from Stansted Airport and a perfect stop-over, according to Tom Chesshyre in the [Times](http://www.thetimes.co.uk/tto/travel/article3890917.ece).

Café Royal, in London, is a Piccadilly hotel offering comfortable rooms and superb breakfasts but writing in the [Sunday Telegraph, Fiona Duncan also finds a lack of soul.

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