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What's on the menu – 'ludicrous expense' but 'fabulous' food at Le Manoir, says Jay Rayner

15 September 2013 by
What's on the menu – 'ludicrous expense' but 'fabulous' food at Le Manoir, says Jay Rayner

Raymond Blanc's restaurant at Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons receives a long overdue visit from the Observer's Jay Rayner, who says the "ludicrous expense, however good the ingredients" is unjustifiable but the food is fabulous.

Blanc doesn't pretend great cooking is easy, notes Rayner, but "complicated and takes not just great taste, but oceans of experience and hard graft".

The Artichoke, another stalwart on the home counties fine-dining restaurant scene, pops up in the reviews this week. After hearing locals rave about the restaurant, which last year celebrated its 10th anniversary, Elfreda Pownall finds the Artichoke lives up to the hype, in the http://blogs.catererandhotelkeeper.co.uk/blogs/guide-girl/2013/09/what-the-critics-say---round-up-of-latest-restaurant-and-hotel-reviews-3.html" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Telegraph](http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/restaurants/10284274/Artichoke-Old-Amersham-restaurant-review.html).

Marina O'Loughlin is unimpressed by the borrowed design and "cheap ingredients, massively marked up" at Paesan in London's Exmouth Market. Writing in the [Guardian](http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2013/sep/14/restaurant-paesan-london), she says "that this derivative throwback exists in the same street as Moro and Caravan smacks of sheer gall".

If they ditch the marble slabs, sort out the sides and have a redesign, burger joint Slabs in London's New Cavendish Street, could be full, says Susannah Butter in the [Evening Standard](http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/slabs--restaurant-review-8811186.html).

The Times' Giles Coren experiences extortionate prices and food he only ever expected to encounter in his worst nightmare at Red Pocket in the Hotel Verta by Rhombus, Battersea, London SW11.

The Anvil Inn in Sawdon, North Yorkshire offers very good pub food, writes Christopher Hirst in the [Telegraph](http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/food-and-drink/reviews/restaurant-review-the-anvil-main-street-sawdon-north-yorkshire-8810333.html), served in customary, abundant Yorkshire style.

The scenery is uninspiring but Prima Donna in Brixton Market offers tanatalising Brazilian street food you won't forget, says Matthew Norman in the [Telegraph](http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/restaurants/10296525/Restaurant-review-Prima-Donna-London.html).

Koya Bar in London W1 lives up to the reputation of its big brother next door, says Joe Warwick in the [Metro](http://metro.co.uk/2013/09/12/koya-bars-noodles-live-up-to-its-big-brothers-reputation-3958494/), perfect for those craving udon but not the queues at Junya Yamasaki's Koya.

Whyte & Brown is on the receiving end of short but not sweet review by Emma Sturgess, also in the [Metro](http://metro.co.uk/2013/09/12/koya-bars-noodles-live-up-to-its-big-brothers-reputation-3958494/), who describes her lunch at the poultry-focused restaurant as "clucking awful".

HOTELS

Tim Chesshyre of the [Times](http://www.thetimes.co.uk/tto/travel/bestofbritain/article3864787.ece) says that with its classy-but relaxed restaurant and stylish bedrooms, the Idle Rocks in St Mawes, Cornwall, is a seriously slick new hotel.

The Sunday Telegraph's Fiona Duncan enjoys St Enodoc in Rock, Cornwall, for its comfort and Nathan Outlaw's two-Michelin-starred food, but suggests its bedrooms would benefit from some upgrading.

[* Visit Guide Girl for a round up of UK restaurant and hotel reviews from the last seven days

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