What's on the menu – Tom Kitchin's Scran & Scallie makes AA Gill consider a move to Edinburgh

28 October 2013 by
What's on the menu – Tom Kitchin's Scran & Scallie makes AA Gill consider a move to Edinburgh

Tom Kitchin's Edinburgh restaurant Scran & Scallie leaves AA Gill so invigorated, he almost thinks "this is the town I could leave London for", in a week of reviews split between London and Scotland.

Writing in the http://www.thetimes.co.uk/tto/travel/wheretostay/scotland/article3901430.ece" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Sunday Times](http://www.thesundaytimes.co.uk/sto/Magazine/article1330651.ece), Gill says Kitchin's menu is "long on working food without fuss", adding that finding Pierre Koffmann dining at a neighbouring table is a "pretty sure sign it'll be good".

Marianne Lumb, a 2009 finalist in BBC series Masterchef: the Professionals, is on the receiving end of two reviews for her tiny fine-dining site in West London.

Giles Coren, for the [Times](http://www.thetimes.co.uk/tto/magazine/article3900182.ece), finds a "smart dash of pretentiousness" is what is needed at Lumb's self-titled Notting Hill restaurant, while the [Independent's](http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/food-and-drink/reviews/restaurant-review-marianne-lumbs-bijou-new-venture-is-small-but-perfectlyformed-8899766.html) Tracey MacLeod describes the chef's new bijou venture as "small but perfectly formed".

Andrew Neather pops up to Anthony Demetre's new pop-up in collaboration with Restaurant Associates, for the [Evening Standard](http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/ad12-at-tower-42--restaurant-review-8900975.html). He describes AD12 atT42 as impressive and "Arbutus 300 feet up".

Cocktails, Cornish sea bass and caramels — the art of fine dining comes to the Royal Academy of Arts, says Fay Maschler - also in the [Evening Standard](http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-the-keepers-house-8898509.html) - who this week reviews Oliver Peyton's The Keeper's House.

Back up in Scotland, the [Guardian's](http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2013/oct/26/the-buttery-glasgow-restaurant-review) Marina O'Loughlin pays a visit to the Buttery in Glasgow, which she describes as "as impervious to fashion as a weather girl, and all the better for it".

Richard Bath reviews the Isle of Eriska, Loch Creran, for the [Scotsman](http://www.scotsman.com/lifestyle/restaurant-review-the-isle-of-eriska-loch-creran-1-3159564). There he finds former Michelin-starred Alimentum chef Ross Stovold serving "top-quality" food.

Set amid the chaotic splendour of Edinburgh's Old Town, the Grain Store charms you despite the sense that it needs an injection of energy, says the [Telegraph's](http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/restaurants/10386037/The-Grain-Store-Edinburgh-restaurant-review.html) Matthew Norman.

Consistency isn't really the forte of Acciuga in London W8, so why is she minded to give it a chance, asks Zoe Williams, also in the [Telegraph](http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/restaurants/10387003/Acciuga-London-W8-restaurant-review.html).

Bō Làng in London SW3 is a new dim-sum bolt hole with style and substance, according to Joe Warwick for the [Metro](http://metro.co.uk/2013/10/24/bo-lang-is-a-new-dim-sum-bolt-hole-with-style-and-substance-4158480/).

Grace Dent checks out Grillshack - the new casual dining venture from Mark Askew and Hannah Bass under Richard Caring - for the [Evening Standard](http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/grace-dent-reviews-grillshack-8901189.html), where she finds all the gimmicks a bit too much.

The [Observer's](http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2013/oct/27/drakes-tabanco-restaurant-review) Jay Rayner visits Drakes Tabanco, an ‘authentic' Jerez tavern, in London's Windmill Street, but comes out scratching his head.


The [Telegraph's](http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/hotel/120330/Celtic-Manor-Resort-hotel-Newport-Gwent-review.html) Adam Ruck visits Celtic Manor Resort, in Gwent, a Newport hotel offering a choice of restaurants, comfortable rooms and a Ryder Cup championship golf course.

You'll be haunted by the view at Cornwall hotel the Headland, where movie The Witches was made, says Vicki-Marie Cossar in the [Metro](http://metro.co.uk/2013/10/24/youll-be-haunted-by-the-view-at-cornwall-hotel-where-movie-the-witches-was-made-4158042/).

Tom Chesshyre for the [Times finds great value and a wonderful location at the Inn at John O'Groats, Caithness, Scotland - "it just lacks an evening restaurant", but that will be added next year.


Guide Girl
Guide Girl
* Visit Guide Girl for a round up of UK restaurant and hotel reviews from the last seven days*

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