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Food critics mostly impressed by London's Aurelia

12 December 2011 by
Food critics mostly impressed by London's Aurelia

Aurelia, the latest venture by veteran London restaurateurs Giuliano Lotto and Peter and Arjun Waney, came under the scrutiny of the food critics this weekend - and it mostly impressed.

While Tony Turnbull, writing in the Times, isn't convinced by the sharing concept at the Mayfair restaurant, he finds the food to be faultless.

"Better than faultless, actually, like watching a slide show of all your childhood holidays rolled into one and discovering they were even more sun-kissed and golden than you'd remembered," he enthuses.

Meanwhile the Sunday Telegraph‘s Zoe Williams is slightly less excited about Aurelia. "It's pricey and a bit mixed, and if you get it right it's wonderful, and even if not, it's fine," she says.

The Guardian‘s John Lanchester says Paul Foster's cooking at Tuddenham Mill in Suffolk deserves all the accolades the young chef has garnered this year.

For his review for the Sunday Times, AA Gill dines at Caprice Holdings' latest restaurant, 34, where the only thing done well is his steak, which he wanted rare.

The 10 Cases is a great idea for a restaurant but a short menu, small portions and unreliable food means it doesn't deliver, says the Observer‘s Jay Rayner, while Time Out‘s Susan Low leaves Mishkin's, the fifth site from the team behind the Polpo and Spuntino restaurants, feeling processed rather than nourished.

The Independent‘s John Walsh leaves Soif, feeling stuffed, but impressed by the gutsy intensity of the chef's cooking, while the Metro‘s Marina O'Loughlin can't imagine anyone not liking Union Jacks, London W1, the latest restaurant concept from Jamie Oliver, which has been tested to an inch of its life.

Finally the Evening Standard‘s Fay Maschler says the Delaunay, the latest restaurant from Chris Corbin and Jeremy King, offers elegance, attention to detail and most importantly what diners really want and scores it a rare, perfect five.

For these reviews in full and more, see What's on the menu? Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine-dining world.

By Kerstin Kühn

E-mail your comments to Kerstin Kühn here.

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