Giles Coren enjoys the food at the relaunched Savoy Grill

10 January 2011 by
Giles Coren enjoys the food at the relaunched Savoy Grill

Giles Coren enjoys the food at the relaunched Savoy Grill but feels he is of a generation too young to really grasp its relevance.

The Times‘ food critic says that while the Gordon Ramsay Holdings restaurant now serves a vastly improved menu of British flavours and grills, he can't shake the feeling that it's not for diners of his demographic and age group.

"It's] the sort of stuff I would return for again and again without question if the sense did not linger that this place simply isn't for me or for anyone of my generation," he says.

Meanwhile The Independent‘s Tracey Macleod finds potential in the fusion menu at Peter Gordon's latest restaurant Kopapa, but adds there's something distinctly studenty and no-frills about it.

"It was only with some effort that we managed to stretch our evening out to a full-length dinner, so keen were the young waiters to hurry us through our meal. Perhaps "Kopapa" is Maori for "get a bloody move on"," she says.

Writing in The Guardian, John Lanchester is impressed with the tapas served at Morito, sister restaurant to Moro in Clerkenwell, but finds the portions on the very small side of small.

The Observer's Jay Rayner says Albert's Table in Croydon is a solid, sturdy French restaurant knocking out solid, sturdy dishes full of flavour, which makes it worth visiting London's southernmost fringe.

Zoe Williams, writing for The Sunday Telegraph, says the food at healthy fast food chain Leon is wholesome and moreish if you ignore all that alfalfa, brown rice and quinoa.

Finally The Sunday Times‘ AA Gill is pleasantly surprised by old favourites at Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant Hakkasan's second outpost in Mayfair.

[For these reviews in full see What's On The Menu? >>](

Tracey Macleod applauds the Savoy Grill's Great British menu >>

Stuart Gillies on the reopening of the Savoy Grill >>

<span class=""noindex"">By Kerstin Kühn

E-mail your comments to Kerstin K¸hn here.

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