Upwardly mobile 20 September 2019 The founders of coffee and brunch chain Caravan are on the move, taking their business model to new Chelsea restaurant Vardo
In this week's issue... Upwardly mobile The founders of coffee and brunch chain Caravan are on the move, taking their business model to new Chelsea restaurant Vardo
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Hard shell: Coworth Park's Adam Smith creates a crab masterclass 17 August 2019 by

At Coworth Park, Adam Smith makes the most of ingredients like cock crabs, using the white meat in a pretty as a picture tartlet on a tasting menu, and the brown meat and shell in a hearty bisque fit for the brasserie. Michael Raffael reports

At Coworth Park in Ascot, Berkshire, executive Adam Smith buys the largest crabs he can find. The white meat is for a caviar starter in Restaurant Coworth Park, and the shell and the soft meat are the basis of a bisque, served in the Barn. Because one dish is overtly luxurious and the other rustic doesn't mean that one tastes better or requires less skill. They answer to different meal occasions: one puts delicacy and finesse on the customer's plate, the other is a classic shellfish soup given a modernist tweak.

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