Martin Wishart's the Honours is more fine-dining than brasserie, says Joanna Blythman

22 August 2011 by
Martin Wishart's the Honours is more fine-dining than brasserie, says Joanna Blythman

Martin Wishart's new restaurant, the Honours in Edinburgh, is far too much on the fine-dining side for a brasserie, says Joanna Blythman.

Writing in the Guardian, Blythman criticises the execution of the menu at the new restaurant in the Scottish capital's New Town, adding the food is "indicative of a kitchen that views brasserie through a fine-dining lens".

The Times‘s food critic Giles Coren is horrified by the kitchen practices at the Riding House Café, the latest venture by the team behind the Garrison.

"They've built this place to make some ‘theatre' out of the kitchen - positively encouraged us to scrutinise - and what I witnessed, sitting up at the bar in the best seats in the house, was a horror show," he complains.

Tom Kerridge's cooking at the Hand & Flowers in Marlow, Buckinghamshire, is everything you'd hope for, says Allan Jenkins, writing in the Observer, though your fellow diners may not be.

The Independent‘s Christopher Hirst is impressed by Paul Peters's cooking at the Black Swan hotel, which he says merits a detour to Helmsley in North Yorkshire.

The outside might be a mess, but the food at the Prince of Wales makes the pub in Putney, London SW15, a real find, says the Sunday Telegraph‘s Zoe Williams, while the Sunday Times‘s AA Gill says Pizza East is a great addition to Notting Hill, which improves without patronising.

In London, the Metro‘s Marina O'Loughlin suggests Silvena Rowe should get back on TV and out of the kitchen as she has a disappointing experience at Quince, while Fay Maschler says that, despite attempts to modernise, tradition is still the trump card at the Lyttelton restaurant at the Stafford hotel.

For these reviews in full and more see What's on the menu? Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine-dining world.

By Kerstin Kühn

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