Zoe Williams is let down by the food and atmosphere at Brasserie Joël](http://www.brasseriejoel.co.uk/), a "could-be-anywhere hotel restaurant".
Located at the Park Plaza Westminster Bridge hotel, the restaurant, overseen by head chef Joël Antunes, is "passionless and corporate", according to The Sunday Telegraph's food critic.
"They know what they're doing here, but perhaps they know it too well; I'm not vibing any blood, sweat or tears," Williams says.
Meanwhile The Sunday Times' AA Gill finds himself distinctly underwhelmed by the mediocre menu on offer at Roy Brett's [Ondine](http://www.ondinerestaurant.co.uk/), Edinburgh's fanciest fish restaurant.
"Ondine is perfectly adequate in almost every department, but excels in none," he laments.
Writing in The Independent on Sunday, Amol Rajan finds exquisite cooking and service at the [Bingham hotel](http://www.thebingham.co.uk/) in Richmond, Surrey, where Hotel Catey Chef of the Year Shay Cooper is in charge of the kitchen.
The Guardian's John Lanchester finds Sicilian restaurant [Da Piero](http://www.dapiero.co.uk/) in Irby, Cheshire, is knocking out some of the best Italian cooking in the country, while Giles Coren says [Tinello](http://www.tinello.co.uk/) in London will become one of the big success stories of this year.
In The Observer, Jay Rayner says a cocktail piano, a discerning clientele and a chef on song mean [Entrée](http://www.entreebattersea.co.uk/) in Battersea, south London, is on the rise.
[For these reviews in full and more, see What's on the menu?](http://www.caterersearch.com/Articles/2010/11/15/335904/whats-on-the-menu-a-round-up-of-the-latest-restaurant-reviews.htm) Visit [GuideGirl](http://www.caterersearch.com/blogs/guide-girl/) for the latest gossip from the fine-dining world.
[Menuwatch: Brasserie Joël >>](http://www.caterersearch.com/Articles/2010/11/11/335891/Menuwatch-Brasserie-Jo235l.htm)
Roy Brett to open new restaurant in Edinburgh >>](http://www.caterersearch.com/Articles/2009/07/17/328778/Roy-Brett-to-open-new-restaurant-in-Edinburghs-Missoni.htm)<span class=""noindex"">By Kerstin Kühn
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