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Some chefs may forage the odd ingredient, but few can pick components of their menu on their way to work, as Pam Brunton does on the shores of Loch Fyne on Scotland's west coast. When cosseted city-dwellers ask Brunton how on earth she gets hold of supplies for Inver restaurant, in Argyll and Bute, her comeback is quick: "Well, the supplies are here," she points out. "How do you get yours?"
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