What's on the menu? – A round-up of the latest restaurant reviews

06 June 2007
What's on the menu? – A round-up of the latest restaurant reviews

http://www.thisislondon.co.uk" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">Bloomberg](http://www.bloomberg.com), 1 June
Richard Vines gets in touch with his feminine side at Gary Rhodes's new restaurant

If you've eaten at Rhodes Twenty Four, take a deep breath before entering Gary Rhodes's new restaurant. In contrast to the rather masculine dining room in the City of London, where a predominantly male clientele enjoys spectacular views across the capital, Rhodes W1 Restaurant is a salon that might bring out your feminine side, if you are in touch with it. The chairs are antique French in style, while ornate mirrors seductively swathed in dark velvet substitute for windows. Mirrors on the ceiling wouldn't look out of place, but there is no space for them because above you are 24 Swarovski crystal chandeliers. It's difficult to know whether you want a menu or a massage. Stick with the former and you'll enjoy a sensual experience whose only downside is a heavier body and a lighter wallet.
Read full review here >>

[Metro](http://www.metro.co.uk/), 31 May
Marina O'Loughlin enjoys the food at Olivomare but not the attitude

Olivomare comes from the same illustrious stable as Olivo and Oliveto, long-standing and perennially popular Belgravia joints, whose claims to fame include launching Giorgio Locatelli's career and introducing the fishy luxury bottarga to an appreciative London audience. Owner Mauro Sanna has built up a loyal clientele over the years, culled from the area's wealthy inhabitants. So it's no surprise that, without a whisper of publicity, the new restaurant is already rammed with people who look like rather louche connections of the royal family. If Ginger Hewitt turned up, he'd fit in nicely.
Read full review here >>

[Time Out](http://www.timeout.com/), London Issue, May 30-June 5
Guy Dimond goes for dinner at the Diner

In the wake of movies such as Fast Food Nation, you'd be forgiven for thinking that small towns in the USA have nothing but identikit fast-food joints in which to eat. In fact, pockets of resistance to corporate culture are found in every town. Some of these are documented on the excellent website www.roadfood.com, which describes the many regional dishes of the USA and the most characterful diners in which to find them.The Diner in Soho shares some of the qualities that the website's contributors enthuse about. It might not be historic - it's spanking new, in fact, a second branch of the Shoreditch original, itself only opened at the end of 2005 - but it looks well lived-in because of careful design and selection of booth seating, glass screens, unmatched light fittings and assorted Americana. The bar is well stocked and - just like ones you find in the States - staffed by people who are sociable and know how to fix a good margarita or bloody Mary.
Read full review here >>

[Evening Standard, 30 May
Fay Maschler thinks the food is great but not the room at Gary Rhodes's new restaurant

Gary Rhodes OBE is an odd celebrity chef in that he has never given up the security blanket of working for others. While it has probably made sound financial sense, especially alongside the telly and the ads for Tate & Lyle etc, it exhibits a lack of the daring which would seem desirable, if not essential, in a great cook.
Rhodes W1, with its own discreet yet important entrance at the back of The Cumberland Hotel - where there is also a Rhodes W1 Brasserie - is backed by Restaurant Associates, part of Compass Group. It is, however, in style and content, by far Rhodes's most recherché endeavour yet. Gone are the oxtail stews and Jaffa Cake puddings. Here is French classicism in the cooking and a small 45-seat windowless dining room, decorated by Kelly Hoppen, which resembles a fetishist boudoir.
Read full review here >>

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