How to create a vegan pub

Ten years later and vegan pubs, while certainly not dominating the market, are popping up more frequently on the map and both city and countryside watering holes are embracing plant-based. It's still niche, but the fact that pubs are braving the move – and converting regulars and attracting tourists – is a positive one for people looking to eat meat-, fish- and dairy-free.

According to a report by YouGov in 2022, the UK's vegan population is between 2% and 3% (compared to a vegetarian population of 5%-7% ) with most vegans being relatively new to the lifestyle (five years and under) and a majority having graduated from being vegetarian too. Perhaps more interesting is the rise of the flexitarian – people reducing their consumption of animal-based food – which, says the Agricultural and Horticultural Development Board – now stands at 23% of the population. And even more interesting is that this demographic is balanced towards young adults and retirees across the country. Thought veganism was just for Gen Z London-dwellers? Think again.

Personal roots

It comes as little surprise that the motivation to run a vegan pub often comes from the owner's personal lifestyle choices. Luke McLoughlin, co-founder of east London pub the Spread Eagle, was vegetarian for a number of years before becoming vegan, and worked at festivals with business partner Sherri-lee Estabrook.

"I just thought there was a gap in the market and we wanted to show how easy it was," he says of their decision to run a vegan pub when they took over the premises back in 2018.

Jan Wise, owner of the Walnut Tree in Thwaite, Suffolk, has been vegetarian for 25 years. Her ownership of the Vegetarian Red Lion in Ipswich was a chance for her to implement her meat-free ethos before moving to the Walnut Tree in 2017. While the majority of the dishes at the Walnut Tree are vegan, Wise admits her approach to vegan food in her pub wasn't always so accommodating: "To be honest, originally the vegan split wasn't amazing at all – it wasn't something I had researched much – but since then I have become more interested in plant-based food, so we try to make nearly everything vegan or vegan adaptable."

In Wiltshire the Harp & Crown's Genna Acourt had previously owned a French bistro before going vegan and taking a break from catering to open an animal rescue business. When she was asked to run the local pub, she said yes – but on her own terms. "We said ‘we'd love to, but only with our values', and that was where the idea of a vegan pub came from."

Planting the seed

Easing regulars into and establishing the idea of a vegan pub was one that both Acourt and McLoughlin did with delicacy. "For the first two months we ran it as it was: with big football screens, serving mainly beer to 25- to 35-year-old men," McLoughlin explains. "We got to know the locals and embedded ourselves in the community to make sure we didn't do anything too drastic, and then we relaunched."

The initial reaction from friends and regulars was as expected – "are you guys crazy?" – and he doubted himself too – but not for long. "Within a couple of weeks we'd been in The Observer and on The Andrew Marr Show on BBC One and we couldn't staff the place – it was a real runaway train."

For Acourt, the Harp & Crown was always a drinker's pub, so the layout was used as a device, splitting the pub in two for drinkers and diners, while Wise adopted a vegan/vegetarian hybrid menu. "I think it's important to be vegetarian for where we are. Even though we're on a main road it is very rural and if the whole menu was 100% vegan, I think it would put off more people, especially the carnivores," she says.

Combining the concept of a pub with a vegan menu is also something all three operators have been keen to bear in mind when it comes to menus, as well as appeasing meat eaters. At all three venues pub classics have been reimagined to bring a sense of familiarity to the non-vegan diner. At the Spread Eagle, the pie, mash and liquor ("a best seller," says McLoughlin) is a nod to its east London roots, with the pie containing lentils and walnuts; while over at the Walnut Tree, the roasted field mushroom wellington is a winner. Acourt has taken a similar approach with a mushroom lasagne and two types of burgers (one using the Moving Mountains burger brand).

But there is also, of course, space for creativity, with menus featuring hoisin jackfruit pancakes, mushroom kebabs, carrot pakoras, chicken of the woods Korean-style burgers, sriracha and maple cauliflower wings and tofu katsu curry – dishes that are a masterclass in giving people what they want. So it's no surprise that all three pubs are destinations in their own rights, with guests from all corners of the country – and the globe.

The key ingredients

It's also reassuring to know that the majority of a vegan establishment's ingredients will be locally sourced too. "We use a number of foragers depending on the time of year, as well as fruit and veg suppliers from the local market and we have deliveries on a daily basis – our vegetable bills are eye-watering," says McLoughlin. He points out that nuts are kept to a minimum as there is the risk of contamination for those who are allergic. Wise makes sure that nothing from the daily deliveries goes to waste, turning vegetables before they start to "go sad" into soups. Acourt's immediate community are farmers, but she combines buying fruit and vegetables from them with vegan suppliers.

McLoughlin also points out that preparing vegetables can also rely on a hefty amount of man and woman power, which does translate into high staff costs and a price point that is a reflection of that labour, the quality of the ingredients and the skill of the cooking.

And we can't forget about the drinks. All three pubs have if not all vegan some vegan drinks on their menu. In Suffolk, local breweries leave out or use vegan finings to make their beer, and vegan wine is sourced from an independent wine company. The Spread Eagle has gone one step further – all its fittings and fixtures are vegan too.

Fancy a vegan pint?

The English lager

Hertfordshire and Kent Goldings hops, malted barley and wheat make up Adnams Kobold (4.7% ABV), a crisp lager from the Adnams Brewery in Southwold. It also supports the Blue Marine Foundation, stopping destructive fishing practices in protected areas.

The classic stout

It's good news as Guinness (4.2% ABV) (nearly) everyone's favourite stout, has been certified vegan as of 2018.

The session IPA

Purity Brewing's Session IPA (4.5% ABV) is an unfiltered IPA infused with grapefruit peel and with tropical fruit and hop aromas. It's also gluten-free.