AA Gill has given Ferran Adrià's El Bulli five out of five stars but says he won't damn the restaurant by saying it's the best in the world.
The Sunday Times food critic adds that the three-Michelin-starred restaurant on the Coasta Brava in Spain is a masterclass in the metaphysics of how, what and why we eat, while still being dinner.
Meanwhile, The Observer's Jay Rayner finds Brighton's Oki-Nami is a disaster. The restaurant, which counts Norman Cook, aka DJ Fatboy Slim as an investor, serves some of the "worst Japanese food" Rayner has experienced. "As a DJ Norman Cook has my undying admiration. Right now, as a restaurateur, he sucks," he says.