The Metro's Marina O'Loughlin is underwhelmed by the décor and the food at the Modern Pantry in Farringdon, saying it is more "last century" than modern.
O'Loughlin seems baffled at chef Anna Hansen's decision to "hang onto a formula that worked for her" at the Providores- that of semi fusional style, as she bitingly puts it: "To be fair, the fusion clamour has been toned down here: several dishes feature an entire list of ingredients we recognise."
She also pans the "featureless" space, saying "what are we doing up here in frosty isolation? it's] making us wish we were downstairs where, irritatingly, the ‘all day menu' appears to be identical."
Food wise the critic enjoys the signature dish sugar-cured prawn omelette, but describes the Gunjya as "something the Raj up the road might deliver for you to mindlessly chomp in front of The X Factor".
By Gemma Sharkey
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